Perry reflex is reflex glued in while attaching the back. Its under "pressure" even after the clamps are released. That can make a bow hold the same reflex it started with, sometimes. Id suggest hickory. You can look at hickory most often and know just how healthy it is, boo not so much. Hickory is more reliable and 10x easier to prep and finish. Ive made plenty from both hickory and boo and will never use boo again. Id suggest, for a 28" draw, a 64-65" ntn flat bow. Start with 1 3/8" fades and carry that out 16-18", then straight taper to 1/2" wide tips. TB3 works fine, but you better have your ducks in a row and do a dry run prior to using glue. TB3 sets fast and if you are fiddling with 65" of bow you don't have much time. Drill a pair of toothpick sized holes dead center of the handle, through both the back and into the osage about 3/8". When you glue up you lay the back on, insert toothpicks and then clamp out to each tip. The toothpicks keep the whole sha-bang lined up and it cant slip and slide at all. If you glue a back on that gets twisted, it will result in a twisted bow with no way to fix it. If you decide to use c clamps, I do, then be sure you just nudge them tight and don't squeeze all your glue out. Also, alternate which side of the limb as you place clamps so you don't have all the clamp weight pulling to one side. That's about all I know about glue ups.