Author Topic: first selfbow  (Read 4451 times)

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Offline jeffp51

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first selfbow
« on: July 27, 2014, 01:35:41 am »
I have been lurking for a while, but I think it is time to start contributing.  I have read TBB #1 and 2, and made a couple of board bows with varying degrees of success, but ultimately they have all failed.  I live in Utah where good bow wood is harder to find than other areas.--I thought about "pruning" the neighbor's tree in the night, but decided against it.  This weekend, I made a deal with my brother in law, who lives in the mountains of southern Utah.  We cut down a maple a native variety doesn't grow very big, but not sure exactly what kind) on his property and I ended up with two logs about 5-6 inches in diameter and 7 feet long.  I haven't split them yet, and don't really have the tools (yet) to deal with them.  Not sure if I should try to quarter the logs and try and get 4 staves from them, or if I should not be greedy and just split them in half.  The growth rings look pretty tight, so I am a little fearful of chasing rings, but I am good at being patient (mostly) and comfortable working with wood.

I am looking for general advice right now on how to proceed, and will probably have more specific questions soon.  Any help is welcome,  especially if you have experience with Utah wood.

Jeff

Offline huisme

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Re: first selfbow
« Reply #1 on: July 27, 2014, 01:51:05 am »
You should be plenty safe to quarter those logs, but don't try to chase a ring! Maple is diffuse-porous and should just have the bark/cambium removed.

Do at least the first split with wedges so you're sure of how the grain grows. If you've got straight grain it'd be safer to band-saw the halves into quarters, but if it's wiggly and/or twisty you're going to want to stick with wedges or maybe even not use the stave if it's really crazy.
50#@26"
Black locust. Black locust everywhere.
Mollegabets all day long.
Might as well make them short, save some wood to keep warm.

Offline jeffp51

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Re: first selfbow
« Reply #2 on: July 27, 2014, 01:58:42 am »
No band saw.  So it will have to be wedges. I have read about using a circular saw to kerf the wood and kind of guide where you want the split to happen.  How do I make sure I am following the vertical grain if I do this?  What is the best tool for debarking?  It didn't want to peel by hand when I first cut it.  I am also assuming I can rough out something so that it dries quicker--I would just as soon not wait 2 years for the wood to cure.  I am patient, but not that patient.
Internet searching also makes me think I am working with Canyon Maple (Acer grandidentatum).

thanks.

Offline huisme

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Re: first selfbow
« Reply #3 on: July 27, 2014, 03:16:46 am »
I tried kerfing a black locust once and it didn't really seem to make any difference to me, but from what I know you should be more careful splitting maple. Unless the grain was wavy I'd avoid kerfing.

The joy of splitting is that if a log splits in half along the pith you can see quite clearly the path of the grain. You'll know it when you see it ;)

I like a dulled draw knife for lifting bark. If it's really dried out and sticking hard I finish the cambium using the draw knife as a scraper, but you shouldn't have that much trouble if you get on with it :P Then you can indeed shape the bow to rough dimensions for drying. I suggest strapping it to something solid to protect against warpage, be it a 2x4, or beam, a straight tree, or whatever else you can find. For one particularly perfect black locust log I tied all the staves to rafters in my garage  8)
50#@26"
Black locust. Black locust everywhere.
Mollegabets all day long.
Might as well make them short, save some wood to keep warm.

blackhawk

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Re: first selfbow
« Reply #4 on: July 27, 2014, 07:36:58 am »
Welcome to PA,and bowmaking!!!  :)

Offline wapiti1997

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Re: first selfbow
« Reply #5 on: July 27, 2014, 10:09:09 am »
It should split fairly easily, most maple does.  You missed out by not removing the bark soon after cutting.  Drawknifing dried maple bark is not the most rewarding or successful thing IMO...

Welcome aboard and we'd love to see your progress!


Offline IdahoMatt

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Re: first selfbow
« Reply #6 on: July 27, 2014, 10:44:37 am »
Can't wait to see your work.  Welcome :)

Offline JoJoDapyro

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Re: first selfbow
« Reply #7 on: July 27, 2014, 11:34:29 am »
Where abouts in Utah are you?
If you always do what you always did you'll always get what you always got.
27 inch draw, right handed. Bow building and Knapping.

Offline Pat B

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Re: first selfbow
« Reply #8 on: July 27, 2014, 11:59:36 am »
I'd split the logs in half and give them a few weeks to stabilize before splitting down to stave form. Get the logs or half logs under cover and off the ground. Be sure to seal the log ends. Once you split the logs in half you'll know if the trees grew straight or spiraled.
 You should be able to remove the bark since the wood was cut during the growing season. Be sure you seal the back if you do remove the bark.  I have not worked much with maple but any other whitewoods I've cut during the summer were easy to debark, even a month after harvesting the wood.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline jeffp51

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Re: first selfbow
« Reply #9 on: July 27, 2014, 12:34:25 pm »
Where abouts in Utah are you?

I am in Pleasant Grove.  I saw from an earlier post from you that you have mentioned bows from Russian olive, and I am interested in that wood too, since it seems to be the most available around here.

Thanks for all the replies. keep them coming.  My brother in law is bringing me the logs we cut this evening.  I can split them tomorrow if I can round up some wedges

Offline Pat B

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Re: first selfbow
« Reply #10 on: July 27, 2014, 12:56:42 pm »
Make some simple wood wedges. Start the split with an ax or hatchet them continue with the wood wedges.
« Last Edit: July 27, 2014, 04:52:00 pm by Pat B »
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline JW_Halverson

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Re: first selfbow
« Reply #11 on: July 27, 2014, 02:41:01 pm »
I used wedges cut from pine 1x2's once in the throes of desperation.  Whadya know, they worked well enough that I hung onto them and used them a second time before they were so shot that they fell apart!  A tine of deer antler works too, I use those in demonstrations about ABO bowbuilding. 

Since you have the maple, try taking a few of the branches and sharpen them into "stakes", start your splits with a hatchet or axe, then follow up with the disposable branches. 

Good luck!
Guns have triggers. Bicycles have wheels. Trees and bows have wooden limbs.

Offline JoJoDapyro

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Re: first selfbow
« Reply #12 on: July 27, 2014, 03:48:19 pm »
I watched a documentary called Happy People on Netflix. One of the men on the show splits out planks from a tree with wood wegdes that he cut from the same tree. Harbor Freight has cheap wedges. They are also open on Sunday.
Siberian Elm (Mostly called Chinese Elm around here) also supposedly makes good bows.
If you always do what you always did you'll always get what you always got.
27 inch draw, right handed. Bow building and Knapping.

Offline jeffp51

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Re: first selfbow
« Reply #13 on: July 28, 2014, 12:51:57 am »
Be sure to seal the log ends. Once you split the logs in half you'll know if the trees grew straight or spiraled.
 You should be able to remove the bark since the wood was cut during the growing season. Be sure you seal the back if you do remove the bark.

What do you seal the back with if you plan to finish it later?  I thought I would use titebond on the ends.

Offline jeffp51

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Re: first selfbow
« Reply #14 on: July 29, 2014, 02:34:14 am »
Here are some photos of the split logs. I am sure for most of you this nothing new, but I am still trying to find my way.  The split logs look less straight than they did when they were whole, but I suppose that is normal.  The dark spots don't look promising.  Thoughts?

Oh, and debarking -- not the most enjoyable part of making a bow.