Osage design ideas

[Ross.m.]

      I just ordered an Osage stave, and it is my first time working with Osage also. The dimensions are  :Length 71.5in X 3in  X 3in , 8 lbs. based on its current weight at those dimensions, how much would it need to be dried?
      I also need to find a design for a bow at that length. I read in an earlier post that flatbows work well on Osage at long lengths. So far I've only made a 54 inch maple bow so a much longer stave of different wood should teach me a lot. If any of you have suggestions for design ideas, I would be happy to hear them!

[Badger]

  For a 28" draw I like osage between about 64" and 68", I kind of consider 66" to be my standard anymore.

[SLIMBOB]

Knowing when it was cut would help but, were it me, I would dry it until it's no longer losing any weight.  No idea how much weight it will lose.  Then, Stiff handle 64-68 inches long.  4 or 5 inch handle with 2 inch fades.  1 1/2 - 1 3/8 inches wide to mid limb and then taper to 3/8 inch at the tips.  Flip the last 5-6 inches.  50lbs.  27inches.  Good clean stave, that get's me there.  You can go a little shorter, a little more narrow add more reflex, but that is a good starting point I think.

[Ross.m.]

It was cut last thanksgiving day

[SLIMBOB]

Ideally, I would let it season for a good long time but, I'm guessing your chomping at the bit to get one started...It's not dry would be my guess, much less seasoned.  You can work it down to floor tiller stage and then let it dry some more before you do any bending on it.  It will dry quickly at those dimensions.  After it has set for a few weeks in that state you can begin bending it some and monitor any set.  If it takes any early on let it set some more. Continue on once it is not taking any appreciable set during floor tiller.  I don't have a hot box so I don't use one but that is an option.

[bubby]

got any pics 3" thick you might get a belly split off it

[Pat B.]

Knowing when it was cut would help but, were it me, I would dry it until it's no longer losing any weight.  No idea how much weight it will lose.  Then, Stiff handle 64-68 inches long.  4 or 5 inch handle with 2 inch fades.  1 1/2 - 1 3/8 inches wide to mid limb and then taper to 3/8 inch at the tips.  Flip the last 5-6 inches.  50lbs.  27inches.  Good clean stave, that get's me there.  You can go a little shorter, a little more narrow add more reflex, but that is a good starting point I think.

Bob, when you saw flip the last 5-6" how far are you talking about ??   A 45' bend, 22' or

[SLIMBOB]

That would depend on several factors for me, but keep them at a lower angle. Less difficulty with string alignment, breaking them off while bending or simply having one split as you bend it. 25 -35 degrees. Looks cool and off sets any string follow on a straight stave that takes some set.  It will also increase early string tension a bit. Straight stave with some natural set back, you might not want to flip them at all. Judgement call on that. I would want to see it first.

[CustomArcher15]

Hey I'm new to the site but have been making bows for awhile. Osage bows are my specialty, I love em! I have made something like 50 bows of the stuff. I say at that length (71") for a 28" draw or close to it you could go 1 1/8-1 1/4" and taper it to the tips and do an eliptical tiller where the inner 4" or so of each limb doesn't really bend at all. That way you have a limb that's working hard like an 8" shorter bow but you get the pros of the longer bow. Or if that seems beyond your skill level you can taper it heavily from that initial 1 1/8" and keep it narrow and tiller it like you would with your other bow you made. The easier way would be the latter but the other is probably better bow wise if you think you can pull it off

[Ross.m.]

That would depend on several factors for me, but keep them at a lower angle. Less difficulty with string alignment, breaking them off while bending or simply having one split as you bend it. 25 -35 degrees. Looks cool and off sets any string follow on a straight stave that takes some set.  It will also increase early string tension a bit. Straight stave with some natural set back, you might not want to flip them at all. Judgement call on that. I would want to see it first.

When you say flip, you mean bending the wood in the opposite direction of the rest of the bow to make sort of an s shape?

Hey I'm new to the site but have been making bows for awhile. Osage bows are my specialty, I love em! I have made something like 50 bows of the stuff. I say at that length (71") for a 28" draw or close to it you could go 1 1/8-1 1/4" and taper it to the tips and do an eliptical tiller where the inner 4" or so of each limb doesn't really bend at all. That way you have a limb that's working hard like an 8" shorter bow but you get the pros of the longer bow. Or if that seems beyond your skill level you can taper it heavily from that initial 1 1/8" and keep it narrow and tiller it like you would with your other bow you made. The easier way would be the latter but the other is probably better bow wise if you think you can pull it off

And if I start at 1 1/4 of an inch width, what would my tips be width wise? Also what thickness would you suggest?

[SLIMBOB]

Flip. Recurve the tips.