let's continue with the tips. Here is a pic how it looks now:
reducing the width
glueing on some brownish horn with super glue allows to continue in seconds
some rasping and filing
well, the overlays are shaped only need polishing
I have now rounded the sharp edges on the limb sides, I let them stand as long as possible – this is best guide for an even thickness taper.
I have reduced the with at the levers.
The leftover from these steps was a handful scrapes, forgot to take a pic.
The bow wasn't bent till now, I haven't done any floortiller. I don't like this. Now I bent her over my breast a few inches to get a feel for the drawweight. Handle resting on the breast, bow horizontal, drawing back both tips. Meanwhile I'm quite good in estimating the weight.
Here is a pic of the reflex the stave has
First I took out a longer string out of my pile and watched the bracing in a mirror (to be able for interruption when needed). You can see at once, when the bow is not in balance – one limb stiffer than the other.
It looked good, so I made a regular string for her, 6 strands of BCY 425X, strengthened with 2x2 dacron pieces (about 6” long).
The first brace looked good and I had to make only a few adjustments here and there. All I scraped of is shown in the pic below, really! Never had this extreme before, this flakes weighs only a few grains. The complete tillering in this case is done in 10 min.
I do not use the tiller tree anymore for tillering, only my drawweight measurements are made here. All tillering is made by looking in a mirror while drawing the bow.
Now I leave it strung over night, to let the wood settle in. So now need for exercising the bow limbs. Next day I will see where adjustments are necessary, but my feel is good
I believe, the most exact layout working creates little tiller work
