Power lam?

[RBLusthaus]

I have done what you said but its not really a power lamp it's basically just a built-up laminated handle so that your handle didn't bend, I wouldn't call it a power lam, there's more than one way to accomplish this and get the same results but I wouldn't call them all powerlams

Ok - - i agree that we do not have to call it a power lam and that it would be more appropriate to look at it as an additional built up handle piece - - but if this extra piece extends well past the remainder of the handle - - well past the end of the fades -  as in -- the same length a power lam would be  -  couple inches past the end of the fades on both sides  ---   do you think it would serve to stiffin the limb or would it pop since part of it will be in a bending section of limb? 

I am leaning towards thinking it will still pop -  like Mike says.  Since I already glued one up like this without thinking it through -  the best thing to do it feather it back completely so that it is just a built up handle?   Thoughts?

Russ

[bubby]

I don't think you'll have a problem with it popping  as long as it has a good mating surface

[RBLusthaus]

Alright - we shall see.  I will keep it long and see what happens.  I will report back in 10 days or so.  I will try to get a pic up too.

Russ

[bow101]

I don't think you'll have a problem with it popping  as long as it has a good mating surface

Thanks for chiming in bubb, ...... I have worked and been trained from some masters wood workers and the agreement is Titebond is stronger than the wood itself.   .   I guess what I'm trying to say is the area may FAIL under continued stress and  break rather than POPPING off like coming apart at glue glue seam, which is likely as Bub says "as long as it has a good mating surface" 

I hear you's about the P-lam been sandwiched.  I won't go there again, so there..........I'm really upset now.....     

I have done what you said but its not really a power lamp it's basically just a built-up laminated handle so that your handle didn't bend, I wouldn't call it a power lam, there's more than one way to accomplish this and get the same results but I wouldn't call them all powerlams

[Badger]

Handles pop all the time even with perfect glue joints, even with urac thy can pop off. It's always best to eliminate most of the flex in the handle before you glue on a solid piece. It doesn't pop all at once, it starts at an almost microscopic edge with a huge amount of stress on it and then spreads almost instantly.

[Blaflair2]

I speaking of glue joints if I have a few gaps think it would be ok? Were talking small, I think it'd be ok. I havent cleaned it up to final dimensions so I think they will disappear, most of em

[Marc St Louis]

I find that if the power lam is too thick then you can have problems with the transition when it reaches the core.  I keep mine to no more than 1/8" thick

[vinemaplebows]

I have done what you said but its not really a power lamp it's basically just a built-up laminated handle so that your handle didn't bend, I wouldn't call it a power lam, there's more than one way to accomplish this and get the same results but I wouldn't call them all powerlams

Like Bubby, I rarely put the powerlam in between the belly, and back. I have made R/D recurves by simply adding a 1/8 slat that extends slightly longer the the actual handle, and just feather everything in. Titbond 3.

VMB

[Badger]

  We call them power lams but in reality it was developed for glass bows to move the bend away from the riser and gain some control over where the bow started its bend. Most all glass bows either use a straight taper or paralell even thickness limbs. A reverse taper in the tips and a power lam allows them to place the bend where they want it. Wood bows are different, we just tiller them into the shape we want. Power lams allow is to use a thinner belly lam and save wood. In reality it is just a stiffner for the center of the bow.

[DarkSoul]

My recent bamboo backed ipé bow (link) is a perfect example of that, Steve. The ipé I had was only 10 mm thick. But with the smart use of a power lam, I could still get a very nice bow with very little ipé.

[mikekeswick]

Handles pop all the time even with perfect glue joints, even with urac thy can pop off. It's always best to eliminate most of the flex in the handle before you glue on a solid piece. It doesn't pop all at once, it starts at an almost microscopic edge with a huge amount of stress on it and then spreads almost instantly.

+1
Good mating surfaces are a prerequisite! Handles popping off are a product of bad design - NO glue will hold a badly designed handle on to a too thin belly lam.