Sawing a log with prop twist

[Crogacht]

Not sure if this is the right place for the question, but I've got a half log of native wood, which I've been drying for nearly a year. I went to remove the bark earlier today and it quickly became obvious that the wood under the bark is not going to be suitable for the back of the bow. The half also has about 45 degrees prop twist over 2 metres.

So I was wondering if I saw it into board form, what effect will the prop twist have on this? Does it matter?

I'm trying to picture how the grain would be orientated in a plain sawn board with 45 degrees of prop twist but its confusing me.

[PEARL DRUMS]

45 degrees isnt too bad? Ill bet dry heat can get that out. If your familiar with splices you could always cut it in half and splice it back together less twisted. Cant tell you much about sawing boards out, never did it.

[JW_Halverson]

45 degrees over 8 inches of limb is a challenge.  Over two meters, I would yawn, grab my heat gun, and lay into it with not so much as a doubt or fear!  I heat sections about 30 cm at a time.  If you have 45 degrees and it is consistent, that means you are knocking off only about 7-8 degrees at a time.  That's not going to stress the wood a whole lot, the heat can achieve that for you just fine!

Show that ANZAC fearlessness!

[Crogacht]

Hahaha, I'm not too worried about the twist, it's the surface of the wood under the bark that is unsuitable for the back of the bow.

I think I basically need to decrown it, but how do I not violate wood fibres when I'm having trouble seeing growth rings

[Crogacht]

I've had a think about this, and I believe sawing a log with prop twist is going to result in a whole lot of violated back fibres.

If the log is twisting "away" from the saw blade as it cuts through, and the blade isn't following the path of those fibres, then they're all going to get cut through.

Not sure what I'll do with this wood, maybe lathe something from it instead.