First bow - Version 2

[SeanStuart]

Have you got TBB's? In the tillering chapter in volume 1, there are some really good pictures of how the width and thickness should taper around the fades.

I need to get a copy of that Crogacht. I have been looking at another book that is ok, but maybe a little too simple, "Making Traditional Bows". Which edition is best to start with - one, I assume?

[Crogacht]

Have you got TBB's? In the tillering chapter in volume 1, there are some really good pictures of how the width and thickness should taper around the fades.

I need to get a copy of that Crogacht. I have been looking at another book that is ok, but maybe a little too simple, "Making Traditional Bows". Which edition is best to start with - one, I assume?

They're all good, but if you want to prioritise, I would get Volume 1, Volume 4, Volume 2, then Volume 3. I would get them all eventually though.

[soy]

I'm not a bord bow guy so I don't known if its too late....but I would try a backing of some sort....looks like a time bomb with the tiger stripe.....

[Vgo750]

forgive me if i missed something but why don't you just take the glued on riser off with a heat gun or whatever and then use the 1/8" lam buildup method discussed here:
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,47137.0.html


perfect example by eric krewson in post above:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/featheringfadesBBO_zps638d4aee.jpg

[SeanStuart]

I was sorta thinking that Vgo.

I used TB 3. I don't know if heat will take it off. I was thinking that I will just cut it off on the bandsaw. I saw that other thread and thought how nice it came up at the same time.

[Vgo750]

I actually just asked the exact same question a week ago too and got a lot of advice so it seems like a pretty popular issue.  I use TB3 and know that a heatgun will release it...just heat it up for a little while right at the glue line and you can pull/jar it right off.

[SeanStuart]

Got back to it today. I cut the handle off and did a laminate build-up - not perfect, but Looks nice.

It looks like it will only be about 35# draw. My observation is that it is pulling a bit more on one side, and maybe a bit too much at the fades. Do you think it is bending too much at the fades?

Pics are at 13 inches and 20 inches with paracord, so not really accurate.

Let fly!
Thanks

[SeanStuart]

I will make the tips smaller... Another question, can I put a string on this yet?

BTW. I bought TBB-1 but haven't had a chance to look too much yet. Impressive looking book though. Thanks.

[Weylin]

Slap a string on her!  Tiller is looking pretty good

[DarkSoul]

It's looking pretty good so far. Good fix on that handle.
You've actually already surpassed the point where you should have strung her. As soon as you get about 5" of tip deflection, you want to put it on a low brace. Switch to a proper string (not paracord) straight away and brace this bow to a full brace height. Monitor draw weight.
It's not bending too much in the fades. It's just right. The left midlimb appears to be bending a bit more than the right midlimb. Scrape the right miblimb (6" from handle fade to 10" from the tip) to match them. Also monitor set; the bow will take set at any place it is bending too much.
Those tip overlays are wayyy too huge. You need to remove about 75% of their mass.
Keep in mind that this wood is still a stick; it's not a bow yet. Resist the urge to shoot it prematurely. I can tell you've spend a lot of time on fitting and finishing that handle. It's nicely rounded and smooth now, but remember that would have been a waste of time IF this bow were to break. God forbid, but you can't rule that option out still. It's most time-efficient if you shape and smoothen a handle after the tiller is completed. That way you'll never waste time tidying up a broken board.

[Del the cat]

One the tips are back about 6 or 7" GET IT BRACED, even if you only brace to say 5".
The pull on a braced string is is a different direction, the angles and leverage are totally different and the shape of the tiller will change (maybe not much, but it will.
If you really want to see what happens, mark where the tips have pulled down to on the back board. Brace it and pull the tips down to the same point, (taking care to watch the poundage and tiller so it doesn't go bang*) take a picture and see if they are the same. While you are at it, not the poundage at those two test points. They won't be the same...
Lookin' good so far
Del
*I've had a warbow pulled back to 100# on a long string many times, I braced it and pulled it back to... BANG... it never made the 100#
Long string and short string pounds are not the same thing.
That's why I said go by tip deflection rather than poundage.... if the tips come back 7", they should come back 7" again without going bang regardless of the string length..

[SeanStuart]

Thanks for the tips. Knowing what to look for, and seeing it seems to be the hardest part.

I backed it with two layers of raw linen canvas. It seemed like the prudent thing to do, but it sure is ugly.

The pic is at about 23 inches and I don't see any areas that need more work. Can you guys take a look and let me know if you see anything. Thanks.

[SeanStuart]

Looking at the pic, I guess the left is still not bending quite as much as the right? If I ever finish this thing, it is going to have about 12# draw!!

[SLIMBOB]

Hard to tell completely in a pic on the tree at this stage but, outer on the right just past mid limb out.  Maybe a few scrapes just past the fade same limb but that is debatable. Draw it by hand at this stage as it will look different than on the tree.  Looking pretty darn good.

[Del the cat]

Left outer 2/3 isn't bending much
Del