Tiller Check Please.

[bow101]

I thought he wrote Pulling 40# at 9" long string.......having said that how do you really gauge anything on the long string..? A 4" Brace would be somewhat accurate.

Imagine 40# pulls the tips back 6", then you you brace the bow to 6"
What is the draw weight now at 6" draw (E.g you just start to pull the string)? Answer is zero!
All that 40# to pull the tips back 6" is now just string tension! If you now pull 40# on the braced bow it will pull back about maybe 20" draw!
It's hard to get your head round this when you first strart and that's why so many new guys come in under weight.
Del

I was just interpreting it differently.  Probably what I meant to say was gauge the weight when its on the short string. As far as  new guys come in under weight, I never had to much of an issue with that. 
That reminds we I have to Tiller a new bow today,  ..............then I'll cut it to make a 2 piece.

[DuBois]

come on dubes, it's so easy a caveman did it
sorry but I had to say it

LOL
Some cave men were smarter than others ya know 

[H Rhodes]

A long string for me is tight.  I never use a slack string at all.  They just seem to deceive me.   I start the limbs to bending and get it to low brace as soon as possible. 

[H Rhodes]

  I just read Steve's "how i use the long string" post and have to amend my post here...  Thinking about how to explain what you do takes more than a little blurt like I made above.  I have great respect for the creator of the mass principle, and all of the wisdom he imparts to guys like me and you every day.  If I were you DuBois I would heed his sage advice.
  I don't use a long string very much, or to it's full potential, I am sure.  One thing I have focused on is my floor tillering.  I guess I have developed a feel for when a bow is ready to be braced.  That takes a brand new bow builder some time to develope.  One thing that may help is to take a finished bow of similar design, draw weight, and length as the one that you are building, and floor tiller it to see how it feels to you.  Compare that bend to the one you are working on, and you will know when you are getting close to stringing.  I use that first longstring to start to bend the limbs and make sure that one limb isn't grossly stronger than the other.   If I have them bending fairly evenly and there are no hinges or obvious flat spots, I take the bow up to a three or four inch brace.     

[PEARL DRUMS]

The mids need to bend Doobs. They are dead flat unbraced and should come around braced. That will lose another 10#.