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Author Topic: elm sapling ?  (Read 11378 times)

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Offline bushboy

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elm sapling ?
« on: June 21, 2014, 05:51:04 pm »
I've never made a sapling bow before.this is still fairly green and so am I when it comes to stave bows.my questions aredoes it have to be a bendy D ,or would a stiff handle work as well?should I keep the belly flat or oval.I'm looking to get at least 50@28".is there enough wood here to acheive that?should I decrown it?I make most of mine 62"ttt.thx's rob!
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Offline wizardgoat

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Re: elm sapling ?
« Reply #1 on: June 21, 2014, 06:16:33 pm »
Never done an elm sapling bow, but if its anything like yew or ocean spray, leave the handle section as is, and only remove wood from the belly. If its big enough, which it looks like it is, I'd remove wood to the pith, seal the ends and the handle section, and strap it to a 2x4. Saplings don't take long to dry
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Offline Jim Davis

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Re: elm sapling ?
« Reply #2 on: June 21, 2014, 07:49:46 pm »
Don't decrown it. That myth has run its course. And make the belly flat.

50#,,,?? Iffy.  Make sure it's dry before you start tillering.
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Offline Thunder

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Re: elm sapling ?
« Reply #3 on: June 21, 2014, 09:57:59 pm »
Elm saplings make great bows. 1 1/8" diameter 58" ntn 55# @ 26"
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Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: elm sapling ?
« Reply #4 on: June 23, 2014, 08:29:27 am »
Nice stick bushy. My fave for sapling bows. Id leave the handle round and natural. Just make fades off each end of a 4" handle. You can easily get 50# with it. Temper it and keep the starting reflex under 2". Leave it straight as well, no flipping. Let the whole bow work except the handle of course. No de-crowning.
« Last Edit: June 23, 2014, 08:41:14 am by PEARL DRUMS »
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Offline Benedikt

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Re: elm sapling ?
« Reply #5 on: June 23, 2014, 11:45:28 am »
I built many Sapling bows thsi winter, and this elm could be turned into a great piece of wood!
Don't decrown it, and make the belly flat, just a little bit oval.
Dry it carefully or maybe it will crack in the handle during drying.
Good luck man!
Benedikt
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Offline bushboy

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Re: elm sapling ?
« Reply #6 on: June 23, 2014, 08:38:44 pm »
Thx's 4 the replies guys!I roughed it out like suggested and the lower limb has some reflex and the upper has a kink of deflex about 10" from the tip. Should I remove both the reflex and deflex or reflex the upper to match the lower?I can tell right away this bow has a good deal of draw weight.thx's!
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Offline H Rhodes

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Re: elm sapling ?
« Reply #7 on: June 24, 2014, 02:44:53 am »
I think it would be easier to tiller if you took that deflex out and reflexed that limb to match the other one.  That elm stick could make a good bow! 
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Howard
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Re: elm sapling ?
« Reply #8 on: June 24, 2014, 08:55:12 am »
I would reflex them to match if possable.  :) You can make a bow either way but sure make things simpler if you start out with the limbs pretty even.  :) Never done an Elm sapling but have done several Hickory's and they make a sweet simple bow. :)
 Pappy
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Offline George Tsoukalas

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Re: elm sapling ?
« Reply #9 on: June 24, 2014, 09:27:45 am »
Sapling bows should be left a few inches longer to counter act the crown. 62" for a 28 " draw is short. 68" nock to nock is good but I think it is already cut down.

You may want to back it with linen. The tension stress (back) is concentrated right down the middle.

Made lots of sapling bows.

Jawge
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Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: elm sapling ?
« Reply #10 on: June 24, 2014, 09:36:44 am »
Jawgey I think a high tension low compression wood like elm benefits from the round back, it gives that poor belly a break. Similar to "trapping" a bow. Ive only used elm and HHB for saplings.
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Offline DarkSoul

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Re: elm sapling ?
« Reply #11 on: June 25, 2014, 07:00:37 am »
I agree with Pearly. Elm is a really tension strong wood and can easily handle the high crown of a sapling. An elm flatbow is best made with a trapped back. I've made one elm longbow from a 2" diameter elm sapling and was impressed by it. It took barely any set and the wood looks as fresh as ever. I also rounded the belly a little bit, to not put all the stress on the back. I made an oval cross section, with a slightly more crowned back. I agree with George that 68" is a good length for a 28" draw, although 70" also wouldn't hurt. Make it bend through the handle either way. Much easier in a sapling than a stiff handle.
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Offline dwardo

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Re: elm sapling ?
« Reply #12 on: June 25, 2014, 09:35:02 am »
All of my best performing elm bows have come from small diameter saplings. upto about 6 inch at most.
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Offline George Tsoukalas

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Re: elm sapling ?
« Reply #13 on: June 25, 2014, 09:49:51 am »
PD, doesn't matter what you are bending if the back is round then the tension is concentrated down the middle.

Sure, some woods, like elm, are better able to handle that tension. Nevertheless, to be cautious leave the sapling stave a few inches than normal is my advice.

Sure trapping would help.

Elm does not grow around here but it used to back in the 50's. Dutch elm disease wiped them out. A very few varieties have been found to be resistant though so maybe it will make a comeback. Haven't made many from elm.

You may be right, PD. Perhaps, elm is the only example on earth that would contradict the principles of physics. :)

Jawge
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Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: elm sapling ?
« Reply #14 on: June 25, 2014, 10:12:35 am »
You lost me on that comment Jawgey.
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