How I use a long string

[Badger]

  We all have methods that work for us, feel free to share your method! No claims my method is right or better it's just how I do it.

 First off I only use a long string when I am working on something I am not familiar with, extra heavy, extra short, extra reflexed, extra light, extra long etc. If you are a new bow builder all bows are unfamiliar to you.

    1. After floor tillering, I put the bow on the tiller tree using a string that hangs down to about where brace height would be
    2. I apply enough pressure to expose any areas that are not even I try to make the two limbs match each other.
    3. If the bow looks even I pull all the way to full draw weight even though it might only move a few inches.
    4. I continue to scrape, adjust and lower poundage testing at full draw weight with each pull until I reach a point 4" short of my target draw length at which time I brace the bow.
    5. Thats it.
   

[DuBois]

Thanks Badger,
This probably seems very basic to someone who has been at this a long time but for me and likely some other relatively new folks, the simple processes and order of things are not always clear.
Marco

[Pat B]

I use a log string just long enough to be sure both limbs are bending evenly and together; as best as I can tell on a long string. At about 6" of tip movement, and everything is OK I low brace the bow to 3" to 4".  If the string is tracking well I keep tillering until I can get a full brace. By now most of my tillering is weight reduction. (in my perfect world!    )

[SLIMBOB]

Pretty close to Pat B.  Long string until I get decent tip movement, 4-5 inches, then very low brace 0-2 inches.  Get the limbs even and increase the brace height 3-4 inches.  Even it up never unstringing the bow.  Increase to 5 or so inches.  If it looks good, check the weight on the tree.  Perfect world, the tiller is good and I need to shed a few lbs. 5-6-7 lbs maybe.

[Badger]

  How hard are you guys pulling to get that 5" tip movement? Or how hard would you tell someone you were training to pull to get that 5" tip movement?

[Pat B.]

This is the kind of thread that can really help a new guy, thanks !

[Badger]

  Pat, lately I have been working with some new guys, something I have never done much of in the past. I keep finding things I don't know how to explain that I do all the time just naturaly. So my new kick is trying to figure out ways I can try to explain something to someone else.

[Pat B]

As I'm exercising the bow I only pull it a short way at first then gradually increase the pull as the tillering continues. I always emphasize to never pull beyond the intended draw weight.

[huisme]

I have a D97 string Flemish twisted over the whole length (I think around 72") with a loop at one end and tied off at the other so I can adjust a timber hitch for long string work, then low brace, then approximate length for the final short string with two loops. I always use a weight or scale to control how much weight I exert on the bow, and of course never pull farther than necessary to see flaws

[bubbles]

Steve, are you tillering on the long string for a specific shape?  Tillering mostly fades and mid-limb, and leaving the tips a bit stiffer?  The long string doesn't stress the limbs the same way if I understand correctly, so have you learned to compensate your long string tiller to make it look good when you brace it?

[Badger]

Steve, are you tillering on the long string for a specific shape?  Tillering mostly fades and mid-limb, and leaving the tips a bit stiffer?  The long string doesn't stress the limbs the same way if I understand correctly, so have you learned to compensate your long string tiller to make it look good when you brace it?

    Yep, with 10 or 12# to go still plenty of room for adjustment in mid and outer limbs. I am mostly looking for even on the long string and just as you say leave the outers bit stiffer.

[bow101]

I use a log string just long enough to be sure both limbs are bending evenly and together; as best as I can tell on a long string. At about 6" of tip movement, and everything is OK I low brace the bow to 3" to 4".  If the string is tracking well I keep tillering until I can get a full brace. By now most of my tillering is weight reduction. (in my perfect world!    )

Basically the same as what Pat does.  I try not to spend much time on that long string maybe a couple pulls.  Or I floor tiller to the point where I can low brace the bow.

[lebhuntfish]

Very good discussion guy's, I'm glued to this one. As Pat B. said, this is great for newbies! Thanks, Patrick

[Badger]

       I know I am being a little stubborn and hardheaded about this topic but I have a reason. The issue of when to first brace a bow has been floating around for decades, even experienced bowyers deal with it to some degree or another. The reason is because all described methods allow for touchy, feely tecniques that are not totally clear, The bottom line is that it doesn't have to be because we have an easy method available to measure existing draw weight on a bow and all we have to do is stop the long string 4 or 5 inches before target draw length and brace the bow, simple as that. A short long string is plenty accurate enough to accomplish this.

[dwardo]

I end up doing something different every time, far to inconsistent.
I will be copying your technique and reporting the results.

Great buz about the place at the minute, its good to see.