Syringa arrow build a long

[Staver]

Juniper Junkie,  super build-a-long using the Syringa!  Thanks for posting the pics of the bush.  I really like the tool you use to jig out the nocks, I can't wait to build one and put it to use.  Joe H

[1/2primitive]

Juniper, that's the blade I use to cut knocks also. Cutting a straight knock takes a bit of practice, but it's easy when you finally get it.
    Sean

[billy]

Hey Dave,

Those arrows are really ugly and I'm sure they fly like garbage.  I think you need to make a dozen for me and send them to me so that I'll be the only one seen with them.  you know I'm the only one who can take the humiliation of using such crappy arrows! 

[D. Tiller]

Oh Billy!!! I do think your in trouble now. If I know Dave he will find the most twisted and knarly of the bunch and send you a couple! 

[juniper junkie]

sorry it took so long to get back on. been kinda busy. now that we have our nocks cut and the shafts sanded, we can proceed with some decoration. I use alcohol based leather dye to color the front section, next I use water based deck stain to do some mild cresting, i want them to look native-like so I dont use a crester, the deck stain drys flat so the paint looks like red ochre.  I sometimes dye the back section as well, this time I want the contrast with the nock inserts. now we can proceed to fletching.

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[juniper junkie]

we first need to split the feathers, to do this I cut just through the membrane of the quill, you dont want to cut too deep, then pull outward to strip the membrane from the quill. this results in a nice thin membrane for gluing. if you cut too deep it will pull chunks of white stuff with it. if this happens i take a sanding block with 100 grit paper, put the feather in the fletching clamp and sand it flat. be careful not to sand through the membrane. I use a single clamp fletcher and ca glue unless I want more primitive then I use sinew and tb #3.  I am assuming that most of you already know how to fletch, so I wont bore you with the details

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[juniper junkie]

after the fletching is complete, I use a feather burner to shape the feathers.  bend the ribbon to the desired shape and position, be sure the ribbon doesnt touch the shaft. then when you have the burner hot, simply rotate the shaft and burn the feathers to the same shape. be sure to do this OUTSIDE!!! the smell will get you kicked out of the house, and it doesnt go away for a long time especially goose feathers. I like burning because it seals the edges of the feather and they seems to last longer without fraying.

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[juniper junkie]

next i wrap the forward ends of the feathers with sinew. I like to use backstrap sinew because it has long thin threads and is easy to seperate. I use tightbond 3 because it is waterproof and dries somewhat clear. I seperate the threads and place them in warm water to soften, dont have the water too hot or the sinew will curl up. apply the glue to the shaft where the sinew is going. I like to do the area where the nock insert is as well. start the sinew by wrapping it back on itself for the first revolution or two then rotate the shaft. you want the tail of the sinew thread to be about center of the wrap when done. once wrapped i apply a littlle more glue to hold down the end.

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[juniper junkie]

 next step is to apply the tips, I take the shaft to my disc sander and rotate the shaft to get it to fit the taper of the tip. I have made a jig for cedar shafts, but these are smaller so I need to make another one. after the sinew has dried then you can apply a couple of coats of tung oil to help seal the shaft, but it isnt that neccessary unless you are in wet conditions. these arrows are going to be given away along with a syringa youth bow at an upcoming traditional archers banquet.  I will post some more pics of finished arrows soon, my batteries died in my camera. hope you enjoyed this build-a-long. these same tactics can be used with wild rose as well. If someone wants more info on any of the steps, I will be glad to add more photos. like Gordon had said in his build-a-long.  this forum has taught me a lot, it is nice to pass some along. thanks

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[Pappy]

Cool arrows ,thanks for sharing,I needed help in building shoot arrows.Kind of know how but you gave me some good ideas.No I need to go to work on some.
   Pappy

[Keenan]

Hey Dave, you did awesome. 
 Those arrows look even better in person then the pictures show. That bow sure is a beaut as well. Great buildalong.
 Guys if you want a good, heavy and hard hitting arrow, then you need to give syringa a try. I'ts real dense and I've been more then impressed.   Keenan

[juniper junkie]

sorry it took so long to add pics. here are some pics of arrows I have made. the larger arrows with the obsidian points are my hunting arrows from this past season, they weigh around 600 grains. the smaller obsidian tipped arrows are display arrows, the rest are practice arrows.

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[Otoe Bow]

Great Build JJ.  Thanks for taking the time and effort to share with the rest of us. 

Otoe

[D. Tiller]

Nice Dave! You are really getting good at working syringa.  You bringing those to the Buttes?

David T

[juniper junkie]

you bet. I will have some bundles to trade if you want some. I will be going that first weekend, the 21st. hope to see you there.