Author Topic: From Utah. Meet Bossy, the Milked Bow.  (Read 20484 times)

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Offline DarkSoul

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Re: From Utah. More newbie questions, and a photo!
« Reply #60 on: July 16, 2014, 06:23:18 am »
I would like to see a picture of the bow in its current state on the tiller tree. Let's see what the tiller is like at this point.
If the bow is really 60-70 pounds at 24" (only a scale will tell you exactly where you're at), it is probably too heavy for you. Or are you comfortably shooting that weight? And what is your true draw length? Not 24", I presume. A red oak board of 1¾" wide has a reasonably safe draw weight up to about 60 pounds. It you would like a higher weight, you should go wider, say 2". So with your current, guesstimated draw weight, I would NOT reduce the width, although that is in principle a good way to lower a bow's draw weight. Instead, I would scrape the belly to make the bow slightly thinner and loose some weight that way. I say: SCRAPE the belly. Do it carefully, with little wood removal at once. Don't use aggressive tools like a plane, draw knife or coarse rasp. Recheck tiller often. It also appears that you are having slightly sharp corners. It is important the all four corners of the limbs are nicely rounded.
"Sonuit contento nervus ab arcu."
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Offline JoJoDapyro

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Re: From Utah. More newbie questions, and a photo!
« Reply #61 on: July 16, 2014, 10:14:10 am »
I'll get one tonight when I get home. I do not want the bow that heavy. The tiller is still off, as you can see in the photo with it braced. The upper limb is bending a lot less than the lower. I would be happy with the bow at 40# at the lower end. I have been working the belly with a cabinet scraper, and I sanded the edges right after this photo was taken. In the end I just don't want to break it until I can at least say it is a Bow, and not just a bow shaped board. I'll take a few more photos of it tonight with a full mark up on its layout. Thanks for all of the advice. Running into problems I guess is good for a first build, as I can learn to work those out on this first go round. I have 2 Osage staves I traded from Fred for my next few builds. I already love that wood. It shaves like a dream.
If you always do what you always did you'll always get what you always got.
27 inch draw, right handed. Bow building and Knapping.

Offline lebhuntfish

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Re: From Utah. More newbie questions, and a photo!
« Reply #62 on: July 16, 2014, 04:46:35 pm »
I would like to see a picture of the bow in its current state on the tiller tree. Let's see what the tiller is like at this point.
If the bow is really 60-70 pounds at 24" (only a scale will tell you exactly where you're at), it is probably too heavy for you. Or are you comfortably shooting that weight? And what is your true draw length? Not 24", I presume. A red oak board of 1¾" wide has a reasonably safe draw weight up to about 60 pounds. It you would like a higher weight, you should go wider, say 2". So with your current, guesstimated draw weight, I would NOT reduce the width, although that is in principle a good way to lower a bow's draw weight. Instead, I would scrape the belly to make the bow slightly thinner and loose some weight that way. I say: SCRAPE the belly. Do it carefully, with little wood removal at once. Don't use aggressive tools like a plane, draw knife or coarse rasp. Recheck tiller often. It also appears that you are having slightly sharp corners. It is important the all four corners of the limbs are nicely rounded.

Well said buddy! 8)
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Missouri, where all the best wood is! Well maybe not the straightest!

Building a bow has been the most rewarding, peaceful, and frustrating things I have ever made with my own two hands!

Offline JoJoDapyro

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Re: From Utah. More newbie questions, and a photo!
« Reply #63 on: July 16, 2014, 06:08:18 pm »
Here are the requested photos. First is braced at 6 inches. Second is 20 inch draw (I don't want to push it to 25 with the pit). 3rd is the bow looking at the back.
If you always do what you always did you'll always get what you always got.
27 inch draw, right handed. Bow building and Knapping.

Offline JoJoDapyro

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Re: From Utah. More newbie questions, and a photo!
« Reply #64 on: July 16, 2014, 06:10:37 pm »
Next is the with at the widest point. 5th is width at the nocks. 6th is thickness of the bow at its widest.
If you always do what you always did you'll always get what you always got.
27 inch draw, right handed. Bow building and Knapping.

Offline JoJoDapyro

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Re: From Utah. More newbie questions, and a photo!
« Reply #65 on: July 16, 2014, 06:19:41 pm »
Last is the width of the nocks. (Thickness) I can clearly see the issue with the right (Top) limb not bending well. The issue I am having with it, is that I fell I have worked that Limb to death. The only work I have done to the left (bottom) was attempt to get rid of a hinge about 2.3 out from the handle, and to eliminate twist. So basically I need to reduce the draw weight of the bow. I just get the feeling that pulling it passed 26 at its current weight will break it. The only way I can describe the feeling is to say I can just feel it in my gut that any more and it will break. It is tough to pull it with the long string to put the short string on with 2 hands. I am very happy with the overall feel of the bow when it is strung. It feels light enough to carry all day, and pulling it what little I have feels right as well. The limb twist is all but gone. All I am am worried about now is reducing the draw weight, and getting it to pull to 28. Thanks again for all the time you guys have taken to teach me the ways of the bowyer. I am having fun, problems and all.
If you always do what you always did you'll always get what you always got.
27 inch draw, right handed. Bow building and Knapping.

Offline Fred Arnold

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Re: From Utah. More newbie questions, and a photo!
« Reply #66 on: July 16, 2014, 06:30:48 pm »
Joe, do you use a tillering gizmo? I think it's looking pretty good and agree with some others that you need to remove wood from the depth in certain areas instead of the width to drop the weight. Again you need to round those edges on both the back and belly throughout the entire limb length. That will alone reduce a little weight and make it a lot safer to continue.
I found many years ago that it is much easier and more rewarding working with those that don't know anything than those that know it all.

Offline JoJoDapyro

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Re: From Utah. More newbie questions, and a photo!
« Reply #67 on: July 16, 2014, 06:35:16 pm »
I do use a gizmo. I measure the deepest bend on the left limb, and then mark the areas on the right that need wood removed. I only asked if I could also remove some width to remove the small pit in the left limb. Other than that I am happy with the overall width. That, and why do I have one flat limb, and one good bending one?
If you always do what you always did you'll always get what you always got.
27 inch draw, right handed. Bow building and Knapping.

Offline Fred Arnold

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Re: From Utah. More newbie questions, and a photo!
« Reply #68 on: July 16, 2014, 06:39:44 pm »
Set the gizmo on the limb that is bending the most leave it alone and then check that same depth on what you consider the flat limb. That "should get you there".
I found many years ago that it is much easier and more rewarding working with those that don't know anything than those that know it all.

Offline JoJoDapyro

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Re: From Utah. More newbie questions, and a photo!
« Reply #69 on: July 16, 2014, 11:42:24 pm »
OK, besides some oil, a handle wrap and a elk horn rest it is done. I'm gonna have to calle her Bossy, cause I sure milked the life outta this one. I finally said enough. I just took it off the wall, measured a 1/16th at the nocks, down to just shy of a 1/4 6 inches from the handle, and went to town with the draw knife. It was getting done tonight, even if the result was a broken board. Blood sweat and tears. Hours of wasting time. Here she is. I honestly haven't even tillered this yet. I d'ed the belly, sanded it, exercised it, strung it, exercised it some more, and pulled it to about 27. I'm thinking it is about 45#, but without a scale I am not too sure. First is it at brace height. Second is it at 25 inches.
If you always do what you always did you'll always get what you always got.
27 inch draw, right handed. Bow building and Knapping.

Offline Fred Arnold

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Re: From Utah. Meet Bossy, the Milked Bow.
« Reply #70 on: July 17, 2014, 12:03:11 am »
You know what, that there looks pretty damn good. I'm not saying it's perfect but you did a formidable job. Keep t up. I've got a couple more staves for you to experiment with.
I found many years ago that it is much easier and more rewarding working with those that don't know anything than those that know it all.

Offline JoJoDapyro

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Re: From Utah. Meet Bossy, the Milked Bow.
« Reply #71 on: July 17, 2014, 12:09:08 am »
It could use a little tillering. I am just impressed that it turned out that close for eyeballing the removal. It is a lot lighter to pull. Thanks Fred. Now I can move onto working with ome real bow wood, and not just a board.
If you always do what you always did you'll always get what you always got.
27 inch draw, right handed. Bow building and Knapping.

Offline Pappy

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Re: From Utah. Meet Bossy, the Milked Bow.
« Reply #72 on: July 17, 2014, 08:07:06 am »
Man that is looking good,little stiff mid 1/3 of right limb but other than a little touch up there is looks fine. :)
Pappy
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Offline nakedfeet

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Re: From Utah. Meet Bossy, the Milked Bow.
« Reply #73 on: July 17, 2014, 03:48:38 pm »
That's a pretty good looking bow!

Offline bubby

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Re: From Utah. Meet Bossy, the Milked Bow.
« Reply #74 on: July 17, 2014, 03:53:13 pm »
yeah what pappy said 8 scrapes there would help but look's pretty darn good jojo
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹