Next bow

[Don Case]

For my next bow I thought I would try the thin tips/Eiffel Tower thing. Is there a relationship between limb width and thickness that will stop the outer limbs from bending sideways. Something like "never go beyond square", that kind of thing? If the stave has some character, does that affect how narrow the limbs can be?
Thanks
Don

[Pat B]

Don, I usually keep tips about 1/2" thick so they can be narrowed to 3/8" or less. I don't think character would affect tip width unless there was a knot right at the tip.

[huisme]

I thin to ~1/2" thickness, establish the width I like, tiller the bow, then slowly reduce thickness until there's just a hair of bend at full draw. I left the last lever with a lot of wiggle a little thick, but that might have been a mistake

[Don Case]

Thanks guys. I've only done a couple of bows but I have noticed that they tend to twist slightly towards the inside of a sideways curve, if you follow me. I didn't think that twisting a narrow tip would be a good thing. Because of that I thought I should be a little cautious. Most of the bends are towards the center on this one so it shouldn't be a big deal.

[Pat B]

Don, think of a 2x4...flat it will give a little. On edge it is quite rigid. Narrow thick tips have less physical weight than a thin wide tip and bend less. I usually leave tips and handle area bulky at least until first brace so I can see how the string track but usually don't do a final shaping until the bow is near full tiller.

[Don Case]

Don, think of a 2x4...flat it will give a little. On edge it is quite rigid. Narrow thick tips have less physical weight than a thin wide tip and bend less

What I'm concerned about is loading the 2x4 on edge to its max and then having it flip over on its side

[huisme]

What I'm concerned about is loading the 2x4 on edge to its max and then having it flip over on its side

It hasn't happened to me yet, even fighting propeller twist or pulling slightly out of string alignment.

[Pat B]

Keep everything straight and taper the tip width slightly to reduce the chance of lateral movement...and wait until the end of the process to shape the tips.

[Josh B]

Don, your concern is a legitimate worry.   The wood will always bend towards the path of least resistance.  If everything is straight skinny levers will pull straight back like you want.  It doesn't take much misalignment to make the levers bend sideways easier than the working limbs will bend straight back as you draw.  Make sure the string tracks straight down the levers and it should be fine.  Also make sure you pay close attention to your side to side thickness on the working part of the limb.  If it torques to one side or the other as you draw, it will throw everything out of alignment.  I hope that helps.  Josh

[Badger]

  Don, on real long bows the string tension is higher at brace and tends to twist more easily. I would narrow them gradually  and be super sensitive to any sign of torquing. I have seen bows posted here that look to be about 1/2 wide 12" from the tips, they need to be super straight.

[Don Case]

I'm no where near that extreme. At the moment it's about 3/8" at the tip but it widens to 7/8" a foot from the tip. It seems stable.
Thanks