The Vine Maple Bow: A Build-Along

[Bryce]

when the stave is unclamped you can see there is very minimal spring back. but with every selfbow they will pull out just a bit which is something taken into account when building forms and cauls:)






well lets put some temporary nocks
measuring 1" from the tip and make a mark, then using my square draw a line. where the line meets the belly of the bow ill make another mark. i do this on both sides to make sure the nocks line up nicely.












using a triangle file i start the nocks and then finish them up with the 1/8" file. then clean it up with some 220 so when the stave is strung it doesnt split the side of the nock off.









now that im gonna start doing some serious bending its time to really clean the back up. 220-320-steelwool, rounding the edge as well. then i like the take an antler tine and burnish the back. pushing down any end fibers that might be sticking up. youll notice when burnishing that it gets shiny




















next up tillering!

[IdahoMatt]

Looking good Bryce.  I have never thought to burnish the back before tillering.  Do you think it helps splinters from lifting?

[lebhuntfish]

Very good tips on the nocks and the burnishing of the back. I think I will follow this to the T on my next bow. I see a lot of things I could improve on already. Thanks again, Patrick.

[Dan K]

You may want to consider burnishing the leading edge of the nocks Bryce.  I've been lucky enough to not have the string split the back of a bow but heard of this happening.  Burnishing the leading edge of the nock helps to prevent the fibers from separating under pressure from the string.

[Bryce]

I did dan-o

[Bryce]

Looking good Bryce.  I have never thought to burnish the back before tillering.  Do you think it helps splinters from lifting?

I would like to think so. Strunk mentioned it once in a passing conversation. That's why I do it now.

Even before I did the burnishing I've never had a bow lift a splinter. I know that sounds obsured. I've had bows come in underweight and I've had a couple explode. But making sure your back is baby butt smooth is an important step:)

[4dog]

baby butt smooth before heat bending and burnish back...now i know...its all good..lol

[Gordon]

I used to burnish the backs of my bows, but I don't bother anymore. I have not seen any evidence that it helps, but I don't think it hurts either. Burnishing the edges of your self nocks, however, is a good idea, especially with softer wood like yew and hazelnut.

[Bryce]

Burnishing the edges of your self nocks, however, is a good idea, especially with softer wood like yew and hazelnut.

Yep!:)

I didnt show it but when I burnished the back I rolled the antler into the nocks.

[Bogaman]

Burnishing is one of those things I've heard pros and cons on for years. I  am not sure why I started, I believe I read about it in one of the books by a native American. I believe they did it to help keep moisture out of the bow. I'm sure there were other reasons they did it. I do know that it is difficult to stain after burnishing, so that should be done before hand if one intends to stain.
I started burnishing my second or third bow and have done every one since then. I will do the whole bow once it is finished.
Like you, I do the back and sides before tillering.

[Peacebow_Coos]

Great build along Pinecone

[Bryce]

Burnishing is one of those things I've heard pros and cons on for years. I  am not sure why I started, I believe I read about it in one of the books by a native American. I believe they did it to help keep moisture out of the bow. I'm sure there were other reasons they did it. I do know that it is difficult to stain after burnishing, so that should be done before hand if one intends to stain.
I started burnishing my second or third bow and have done every one since then. I will do the whole bow once it is finished.
Like you, I do the back and sides before tillering.

It sure doesn't hurt.

[wizardgoat]

do you season your VM in log form, or split them? Ive been splitting, but even ones strapped to 2x4s seem to curl right up.
some reflex is good, but extreme reflex is tough to work with. sorry, didnt mean to hijack your thread, but its VM related

[Don Case]

do you season your VM in log form, or split them? Ive been splitting, but even ones strapped to 2x4s seem to curl right up.
some reflex is good, but extreme reflex is tough to work with. sorry, didnt mean to hijack your thread, but its VM related

+1

[Bryce]

do you season your VM in log form, or split them? Ive been splitting, but even ones strapped to 2x4s seem to curl right up.
some reflex is good, but extreme reflex is tough to work with. sorry, didnt mean to hijack your thread, but its VM related

Depends on how soon I want to work the stave. When I cut I mark the tension side. I have a lot of VM staves and I leave them in log form until I want to work them. And I'll just run it through the band saw separating the tension side (<--the good stuff) from the compression side. If the stave starts to curl up too much, I'll clamp it down for a few weeks. The good thing about VM is once it's opened up it dries relatively quick:) especially in a hot box;)