Working handle section using spliced billets?

[Academonicon]

I'm making my first Osage bow, and I only have billets to work with at the moment, so I'm going to have to splice a couple together.  The trouble is, the bow I'm making is going to be pretty short (~56-58"), so I'd like to have a working handle section in order to spread the tension and decrease stacking.  Is it possible to build a working handle using spliced billets, or will they just break apart?  Is there another good way (besides recurving) to accomplish the same effects with a static handle?

[TimBo]

Takedown sleeves wouldn't help with the working handle part, but they would add on four inches compared to a splice, which could help.  I am very curious about this point too and will be interested to see the responses from people who know things!  I have heard conflicting ideas about whether a spliced handle can work slightly or not.

[Bryce]

If you try to get the splice working it will break. The TD sleeves are a good idea. They will let you keep the length of both billets.
If you use sinew the spliced bow will be a nice short hard hitting bow.

But one question....what's your draw length?

[PatM]

Many guys have actually done the working splice but it seems like it is more often used in longer bows.  Personally I wouldn't. You're far better off making a stiff handle and extending the stave on the ends.
 Flip the last four inches of each limb and glue in some eight inch levers with v splices. Wrap the joints .

[Academonicon]

I'll look into these options.  I hadn't been planning to back the bow, but I might do it just to be safe (or increase the limb width a bit).  Bryce, my draw length is around 26" although I should be pulling around 28" given my height - I usually shoot from in front of the cheek rather than beside it.

[Eric Krewson]

Over half my bows have been from spliced billets, most with a non bending handle. The few I have made with a bendy handle have never had a splice come apart, I use a Z splice and urac glue, bomb proof stuff.

OK, everyone who has made a bendy handle billet bow that came apart raise your hand and tell us the details, what kind of splice and what kind of glue? I suspect there are a lot more "opinions" out there than actual experiences.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Over half my bows have been from spliced billets, most with a non bending handle. The few I have made with a bendy handle have never had a splice come apart, I use a Z splice and urac glue, bomb proof stuff.

OK, everyone who has made a bendy handle billet bow that came apart raise your hand and tell us the details, what kind of splice and what kind of glue? I suspect there are a lot more "opinions" out there than actual experiences.

Ive made two and neither came apart. Same glue and joint as you Eric.

[Bryce]

Mine where W splice with uni-800....guess I did it wrong.

[tom sawyer]

I made a little 54" working handle bow spliced with a Z splice (resorcinol) and backed with silk.  It pulled maybe 40lb@27".  I painted it like a garter snake and the youth loved to shoot it.  A kid broke it accidentally, not a splice break though.  I think some sort of backing is prudent but obviously not absolutely necessary.

[vinemaplebows]

I would say "how much bend" if it is slightly bending, should not be a problem.
VMB

[WillS]

I know that some bowyers over here in the UK have made BIG warbows (well over 100#) with spliced billets, and of course a full compass tiller so the handle is working fully.  I think Joe mentioned that he uses a 12" splice for the really heavy ones, but it's apparent that if the glue job is solid, and the splice is cut well there's no reason why the handle section shouldn't work just as much as it would normally.

[Buckeye Guy]

I have only ever had two bows break in the  handle , one was because of  a knot rather than the splice working ,  the other was spliced in 1940s and the hide glue left loose after many moons of use and  I glued it back together and its still going strong today all though it no longer works in the handle!