Ash backed ipe

[mikekeswick]

Ok ok fine electrical tape works fine for you...I get it 
Once you start using more complex shapes during glue-up you'll see what I mean.
Bike shops will give you as many tubes as you want for FREE...I don't know many electrical supply shops who will give me free tape
Inner tubes can be used over and over again. Free and reuseable is a good thing in my book.

[DarkSoul]

Bike inner tubes is the way to go. They're easy to be found, free, reuseable, better, stronger and faster.

I hope your walnut handle is not going to pop off...how thick is the ash plus ipé in the handle? Also, what glue did you use?
It's looking good so far. Take it slow from this point onwards. Removal of a little bit of ipé can suddenly result in a big loss of draw weight. Sneak up on floor tillering.

[Blaflair2]

The ash is 3/16" in the handle and the ipe is 1/2". The built up handle is 1 1/4"

[Blaflair2]

I do plan on trying the inner tubes for my BBO, all I had was electrical tape.

[Blaflair2]

I had her bending pretty good, it was 57#@19" I should of braced it. I was exercising the limbs on the tree and I got a little too froggy. There was a loud bang and the left limb was Mia. Still haven't found the rest of that little bugger. About 6" from the fade was all there was. What I did find was the ash backing pulled off some ipe when it blew. So my glue was good. Like I said... Shoulda braced it, shoulda stopped at 1:30am... I learned a lot. So I'm not mad. It felt sweet. I have plans for another. White oak backing. Slow and steady. Thanks for the info. I am going with the inner tubes as well, electrical tape works though 

[adb]

What did you want for final weight? I think pulling it to 57#@19" on the long string is WAY over doing it. You're asking way too much, way too soon. Your limbs weren't likely bending much over their entire length yet. I'm guessing you hadn't reduced your thickness taper much and it blew right where it was doing all the bending... right at, or near, the fades. I think your glue up would likely have survived, had you been more patient. But, it sounds like you've learned a bit, and I know I learn more breaking bows than making ones that turn out. Back in the saddle, asap!

[Blaflair2]

I was going for 60#, it was bending nice. Stuff happens. I know I shouldn't of pulled it that far. I was always told not to pull past ur target weight. So I thought that'd be ok.

[PatM]

You shouldn't pull it past target weight when actually strung, not on the long string.

[adb]

Exactly! It's not ready to pull to target weight, even with a low first brace! You have to get enough limb working, before you can stress it to a draw weight that high.

[Blaflair2]

Live and ya learn, thanks guys. I'm already dreaming my next try up. Haven't got the courage to try my bbo yet.

If I wanted a bendy handle lam bow how thick should I start with? Possibly a tri lam

[adb]

For bows up to about 60#, I make my ELBs 72" long, 1.25" wide, and about 1" deep.

[mikekeswick]

For bows up to about 60#, I make my ELBs 72" long, 1.25" wide, and about 1" deep.

With an ipe belly?!? Holy smokes! 1 1/4 wide and an inch thick will give you a 100#er!
A 60# er, 72 inch with a bendy handle wouldn't need to be more than 7/8ths thick at the handle.

[adb]

I didn't say with just an ipe belly.... and that's total thickness, with backing, (core if it's a tri-lam), and belly wood. Sure, if it's ipe, you can go a bit thinner, but it only takes a few more minutes to remove enough ipe to reduce tiller to desired thickness for less weight.

[bubby]

For bows up to about 60#, I make my ELBs 72" long, 1.25" wide, and about 1" deep.

With an ipe belly?!? Holy smokes! 1 1/4 wide and an inch thick will give you a 100#er!
A 60# er, 72 inch with a bendy handle wouldn't need to be more than 7/8ths thick at the handle.


its always easier to take wood off than put it back on, right

[adb]

Yup, you can take it off... but yah can't put it back on.