which is more important?

[RedBear1313]

Just my pet theory and nothing to back it up but, lots of thin rings separated by very very thin early wood rings, say 10%, are the ones I want in an ideal world.  I think they are lighter and springier.  The closer I get to that the better I like it.  I will work with whatever I get, gladly.

Well, that's perfect then, because most of the staves I have are fairly thin ringed with a thicker one in there every now and again.

[RedBear1313]

but also, with thinner rings should you keep the draw weight on the lighter side to prevent splinters or other types of failure?

or does that even matter with osage at all?

[Pat B]

I like very thin growth ring osage and build bows in the 50# to 60# range. I generally back it with rawhide for insurance.

[RedBear1313]

I figured for my first bow I would back it with sinew for insurance, as that is what is suggested in Hamm's Bows & Arrows of the Native Americans.

I don't like the rawhide look plus the sinew will add to its elasticity.

any thoughts on that?

[Bogaman]

I've heard sinew referred to as natures fiberglass. It will add to the bows performance if done properly. My very first two bows were from thin ringed osage. My first one cracked and popped up a splinter. I had unknowingly violated the first ring on the back. My second bow was a stave out of the same log. I made a 75 lb bow from it that I still have. It is unbacked. That was in 92', and I was pretty much flying by the seat of my pants. Not much help back then. I have made many since then that were thin ringed and none of the osage has broken.  I used to make all of my bows heavy 60-75 lb. As mother nature has caught up with me, I now make them lighter when making one for myself. They're much more of a joy to shoot for this old geezer.
If you are concerned about it, go ahead and put some sinew on it. That will give experience in that phase of bow building.