Handle

[GregB]

The tiller looks really nice! I totally agree with Ryan and Justin's comments about waiting to shape the handle after tiller is complete.

I personally like to use a large round rasp to do the bulk of my shaping of the handle area where your hand will be. I like to do this work while holding the bow on my lap so that I can rotate the bow while rasping. This allows me to shape the handle with emphasis on comfort. I'll continually grip the bow as if to shoot during this process until I've shaped the handle to my liking. The last couple of bows I've made have finger grooves to improve the feel of the bow in my hand. I place my handle on the grip while still fat, and with a pencil trace the outline and angle of my fingers. Using a round rasp I remove wood where my finger will rest leaving "ridges" between my fingers. The grip will cover this finger groove area, but will retain the "feel".

If cutting a shelf in the bow, I like the shelf to be radiused up to reduce the surface contact against the arrow. I also glue on a small half round shaped piece of thick leather mounted to the shelf which is what the arrow will actually rest on. I saturate this piece of leather in super glue which hardens it and allows for further shaping after gluing to the shelf if necessary. I slightly slope the top quadrant of this piece of leather that the arrow will rest on towards the bow to "encourage" the arrow to stay on the shelf and not be as likely to drop off while drawing the bow or when hunting. Hope this makes sense...

[PK]

You did a fine job on that bow. I would not recommend chiselling the handle out like that though. Splits in the wood could be started that could compromise the bow.

Thanks, I used a japanese saw to cut the cutout in 1/8 in increments,then  I usually use a chisel to remove the pieces. sometime  use the adze and tap the butt with a light mallet, but this time i listened to my intuition after i took the pic and put the Adze away LOL.

[PK]

She looks nice Phil

Thanks Dana

[PK]

Ryan is so right on that, next time tiller first so that if one limb wants to be stringer or weaker you can turn the bow over to get it on the appropriate side, top/bottom.  Sometimes you will also discover that the string lies to one side when you are finished, so you don't have to cut the shelf as deep if that side is the arrow pass. But since it is started, I would reduce some of the wood on both sides and on the belly of the handle so that it is comefortable to put the web of your hand around with your index finger on one side and your thumb on the other. I like to leave the palm of the handle a little higher so it puts presssure on the hand while in a relaxed state with the arm extended. Justin

man i must be lucky today, cause its working out but I'll take the advice a and remember next time, thanks Kind people.

[PK]

The tiller looks really nice! I totally agree with Ryan and Justin's comments about waiting to shape the handle after tiller is complete.

I personally like to use a large round rasp to do the bulk of my shaping of the handle area where your hand will be. I like to do this work while holding the bow on my lap so that I can rotate the bow while rasping. This allows me to shape the handle with emphasis on comfort. I'll continually grip the bow as if to shoot during this process until I've shaped the handle to my liking. The last couple of bows I've made have finger grooves to improve the feel of the bow in my hand. I place my handle on the grip while still fat, and with a pencil trace the outline and angle of my fingers. Using a round rasp I remove wood where my finger will rest leaving "ridges" between my fingers. The grip will cover this finger groove area, but will retain the "feel".

If cutting a shelf in the bow, I like the shelf to be radiused up to reduce the surface contact against the arrow. I also glue on a small half round shaped piece of thick leather mounted to the shelf which is what the arrow will actually rest on. I saturate this piece of leather in super glue which hardens it and allows for further shaping after gluing to the shelf if necessary. I slightly slope the top quadrant of this piece of leather that the arrow will rest on towards the bow to "encourage" the arrow to stay on the shelf and not be as likely to drop off while drawing the bow or when hunting. Hope this makes sense...

sence it does make, I just sloped the rest. I like the crazy glue idea.

[medicinewheel]

nice!

frank

[PK]

Here is the NEW YEAR Paint JOB, Almost done, another question is, when first braced the bow seems stiff on the lower view wise, then I pull it to 26 and it levels off to almost equal on both lower and upper, does that make any sence?

[attachment deleted by admin]

[Minuteman]

Do you mean he lower limb seems stiffer than the upper one? If so that good , having a little positive tiller is a good thing.

[PK]

Do you mean he lower limb seems stiffer than the upper one? If so that good , having a little positive tiller is a good thing.

yep ,just looks funny watching right after puttin the string on, the bow shifts from the lower to the upper, good day.

[markinengland]

Nice final shape at brace and full draw. Looks like you enjoyed the process as well. I like making bows that I learn new stuff on. Keeps the brain working.
Mark

[PK]

Nice final shape at brace and full draw. Looks like you enjoyed the process as well. I like making bows that I learn new stuff on. Keeps the brain working.
Mark

Yes I extremely enjoy the procces especially when I learn the way I'm supposed to do it.
Just getting ready to serve my string then I will post the final photos in a new thread. End of this thread I guess.

[Pappy]

Very nice looking bow the tiller turned out nice also.
   Pappy