Sealing With Titebond III

[PeteF]

Has anyone tried to coat the back of there bow with Titebond III before fully sealing it? I thought it might help with splintering (if any) without putting an actual backing on it. The bow I'm making is a red oak board bow with maple riser and tip overlays. Its no  where near finished but thought I would post some pics of my progress.

[Eric Krewson]

First, I would be very surprised if your bow doesn't crack or break with a sight window cut that deeply into the handle. I made on of my first that way and it broke right at the sight window.

If you want something to actually strengthen the wood I would put a thin coat of super glue on the back. It is a pain to apply but it does strengthen the wood, almost like case hardening metal.

[Pat B]

If you are going to the trouble of coating the back or your bow with TBIII you might as well lay a strip of linen, silk or brown grocery bag paper on it. I wouldn't trust just the glue by itself. That would be like backing a glass bow with just resin without the FG cloth.

[PeteF]

I hope it doesnt break. The last 2 red oak boards I used I cut to center one @ 40# and the other @55# and there still going strong. Those I made 70in ntn, and this one is going to be 65 ntn. so I will see how this one turns out. I'm making it a little shorter because in the woods being so long was kind of a pain

[Pat B]

You will have more success by giving the handle area a smooth shape and adding a shelf than to cut into the handle area with an abrupt shelf.

[osage outlaw]

I sealed this bow in several coats of spray shellac followed by a layer of TB3 rubbed on by hand.  I didn't do it to protect from splinters.  I was hoping the TB3 would provide a non glare moisture layer.  I was happy with the results.  It wasn't a perfectly smooth finish like you would get from tru-oil or tung oil. 

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,41890.msg560607.html#msg560607

[toomanyknots]

Looks deep enough to me, as long as the bow is tillered well it should be fine I think. If the handle is gonna bend enough to break in the first place, the handle would pop off anyway and break that way.

[Jesse]

I seal everything with superglue then sand with 220 before the final finish. It fills the pores and makes a nice smooth finish. Just wipe the super glue on quick with paper towel and let it dry.

[PeteF]

Thanks I will try the superglue. How about a clear epoxy? the reason why I didnt want to back it with anything is because I dont want it to look like anything was on it. I could do fiberglass but Ive read that its no good with red oak.

[Jesse]

Thanks I will try the superglue. How about a clear epoxy? the reason why I didnt want to back it with anything is because I dont want it to look like anything was on it. I could do fiberglass but Ive read that its no good with red oak.

I wouldn't bother with f glass. I didn't realize you wanted the glue for structural purpose.  There are plenty of much better materials to choose from. If you dont want it to look like there is anything on it then dont use anything or use a wood backing. I use the super glue simply to seal the grain for finishing. Not for structural support.