tuning bamboo

[JEB]

I bought some bamboo skewer sticks at the dollar store.  I then drill out both ends of the arrow about 3" and then titebond II the skewer sticks in each end of the arrow. It gives the arrow a nice footing that I can self nock on one end and cut a groove for a stone point on the other end.  I also wrap both ends after nocks are made and points are installed.

This has also allowed me to use a tapering tool to taper both ends for glue on nocks and points.

[mikekeswick]

Im not disagreeing Mike, just giving my experience. Ive made well in excess of 2000 arrows and never used a tester of any sorts, beyond my hands spaced 26" apart. Ive also sent them around to several pretty good shots with great feedback. I hunt and that's all I do with my gear and the only reason I build anything. If I didn't have great accuracy and flight I surely wouldn't hunt with them and I surely wouldn't have a full freezer every year for the last 26 and counting! I also think experience counts for something in our craft. Albeit bowyery or arrow smithing.

I've made a few shafts as well! Around about the same amount as you in fact.  Maybe even a few more
I think experience is one of the most valuable assets there is too. In any field.
I can shoot well enough with unmatched shafts but I know for a fact that I can shoot better with weight, spine and p.o.b. matched shafts. That's my experience and like i said we will have to agree to disagree. Unfortunately without a shooting machine that imitates the human hand it's all a little bit subjective.

[Danzn Bar]

I spined my first cane arrows on this last batch per tenbrook's tomato stake build along above.  I picked a real fine shooting cane arrow from my quiver and hung the two lb. weight from it while it was propped up on two nails 26" apart and made a mark.  Then I set about checking the spine on the arrows I was building. I had cut them a little long and moved them back and forth on the nails till I could match the mark from my good arrow. Sometimes I had to cut from the fat end and sometimes I had to cut from the skinny end.  This step has lead me into a batch of better grouping arrows.  I used to think that bamboo/cane arrows didn't need all that,  but I have changed my mind.  This set shoots straighter and is more consistent from arrow to arrow.  I don't worry about where the nodes are either.  I cut them to length and wrap behind the self nocks and points with thread and clear nail polish.  I have had very few problems with nocks or points being damaged with cane arrows.   

I agree 100%   Shot a few into brick walls, telephone poles and 1/2 wafer board. No damage, cane arras are tough.
DBar

[Dan K]

Working my first set of boo arrows too so thx for the post!  Keep it coming.

[Dan K]

I'd like to know from the group if there are effective ways to reduce spine on boo arrows?  Sanding, grooving, etc.

[Pat B]

Art Butner removes the rind and scrapes his boo shafts so the spine is the same on all sides.
 How much spine weight do you need to reduce? For each inch over 28" you can reduce the effective spine by 5#...so a 50# spined arrow that is 30" long will have an effective spine of 40#.
 

[Dan K]

Most of them spine between 76# and 91#  I have a couple at 112# and 115#  All of them are cut to 32"  So if I understand correctly the effective spine is 56# to 71#

They all spine very close (within a couple #) to the same on all sides.

[Pat B]

Yes.

[Dan K]

Thx Pat. I'll try scraping the heavy weights and see what happens.