yew takedown

[DC]

I have a hole in the box for a thermometer and it reads 210 degrees. The steamer manufacturer calls it a "cool hose" so I'm thinking it's insulated a bit. You can hold the hose when it's steaming. When I'm sure of my setup I will shorten the hose so that any condensed steam can drain back to the steamed. The shorter hose should make it even hotter, maybe 211 degrees

[Richard B]

DC
90 degrees of twist! That seems a lot to take out. Do you think it will stay straight as you reduce it to bow thickness?
My steaming rig is a bit more basic (see pic). Used a length of 68mm downpipe. Slight issue is that the down pipe went a bit soft and is now rather misshapen. However, have managed to remove my billets twist and given it a bit of backset.

[DC]

DC
90 degrees of twist! That seems a lot to take out. Do you think it will stay straight as you reduce it to bow thickness?

I'm hoping. It's in the hotbox losing the last few grams and it's still straight. Tillering will tell. I've found that yew bends really nicely with dry heat so if it does start to wind up as I tiller it should be easy enough to fix. Always remembering that applying any heat to this stave from now on is going to make it want to wind up. No heat without restraints.

[Blaflair2]

I would as well cut that hose to your ste box DC. I think ull get a lot better steam. I'm sure some of it condenses before it makes it to the box. None the less it's sweet. May just heat up faster for ya

[DC]

I just put the steamer on the stool to get it in the picture. When I use it the steamer goes on the floor and the hose is downhill all the way. If you have a dip the condensation collect and it gurgles like mad. The hose will definitely get shortened as soon as I am sure how much. If I just flew at it I'm sure I would shorten it too much. It only holds enough water for 40 min so it warms up in about 5 mins. Just enough time for me to recheck everything and have a mouthful of coffee.

[steelslinger]

Steelslinger,
Did it lift a splinter on the back or belly?

It was on the back corner where the sleeve rolls around to the belly

[Prarie Bowyer]

Interesting! I wonder if the steam loses any heat as it travels through that long tube.

My tube is longer...and it will burn ya!

[Richard B]

This is the takedown sleeve fit that I have at this stage. Shouldered at the belly (to the depth of the brass inner sleeve), with the shoulder tapering out towards the back so that there are no cut fibres under tension. I am thinking that the shoulder, by transmitting compression load to the edge of the brass sleeve might make the join more robust?
However, concerned over Carsons and Steelslingers experience with splinters lifting from shouldered joints.
I am thinking of around 55lbs at 28" on a 70-71" NTN bow. Does that seem sensible for this kind of sleeve joint (thickness of wood inside sleeve 35mm)

[Blaflair2]

Myself I would make it a smooth tradition. As the brass is stronger than the wood it will crush it if it has the chance IMO. When you tiller it will need to be taken down any way so I would take others experience and smooth it. I joined two osage billets in a pipe and left  shoulder as u say. I wrapped the fade areas and it worked fine. It's also about 40 lbs. good luck to ya. Looks like she'll be sweet

[TimBo]

That's beautiful!  But, I would listen to the experienced yew takedown builders and not use a shouldered joint.  This sounds like a theory vs. practice question, and those billets are too nice to risk.

[steelslinger]

The yew take down I made is pushing 70 lbs. that I'm sure had something to do with it.

[Richard B]

Any ideas, what are the safe limits on draw weight with these kinds of sleeves for a yew longbow?

[Blaflair2]

As long as it has a fade u should be good. U just need toake sure the handle isn't bending.

[Gordon]

As long as the area immediately around the handle does not bend you should be fine.

[Richard B]

Thanks for that. I am thinking I could tiller to 55lbs aiming for a drop off to around 50 after shooting in. That's  what I did with my elm bow and it seems a nice weight for me. At 55 lbs I think I should get minimal bending at the handle and through the fades.
The width at the end of the fades is currently coming out at about 1.5 inches so perhaps around 3/4 inch thickness here tapering to 1/2 at the tips?
Haven't made a bow from yew before so interested to see how it responds.