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Author Topic: ipe board.  (Read 7959 times)

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Offline toomanyknots

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Re: ipe board.
« Reply #15 on: March 09, 2014, 01:01:40 pm »
Quote from: TimothyR on March 09, 2014, 12:48:39 pm
Is it ok to back ipe with ash? Im wondering because I can get that pretty easily.  Thanks. Timothy

I'd say yes. Any normal wooden backing should work with ipe.
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"The way of heaven is like the bending of a bow-
 the upper part is pressed down,
 the lower part is raised up,
 the part that has too much is reduced,
 the part that has too little is increased."

- Tao Te Ching, 77, A new translation by Victor H. Mair

Offline toomanyknots

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Re: ipe board.
« Reply #16 on: March 09, 2014, 01:02:17 pm »
Quote from: Jesse on March 06, 2014, 03:13:19 pm
I dont think I have made one that didn't have at least one pin knot. I have yet to see ipe fret.  Im sure it can I just haven't had it happen.

I've never seen it fret either.
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"The way of heaven is like the bending of a bow-
 the upper part is pressed down,
 the lower part is raised up,
 the part that has too much is reduced,
 the part that has too little is increased."

- Tao Te Ching, 77, A new translation by Victor H. Mair

Offline medicinewheel

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Re: ipe board.
« Reply #17 on: March 10, 2014, 02:51:20 am »
Quote from: toomanyknots on March 09, 2014, 01:01:40 pm
Quote from: TimothyR on March 09, 2014, 12:48:39 pm
Is it ok to back ipe with ash? Im wondering because I can get that pretty easily.  Thanks. Timothy

I'd say yes. Any normal wooden backing should work with ipe.

Well, not sure of that: have seen a lightweight ipé trilam ripping a nice elm backing apart.
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Frank from Germany...

mikekeswick

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Re: ipe board.
« Reply #18 on: March 10, 2014, 04:01:55 am »
The problem then would have been the grain in the elm.
I guarantee you that ipe can and will chyrsal at pin knots when it's heavily strained (even with good tiller) just like any other wood. I have pictures!
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Offline medicinewheel

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Re: ipe board.
« Reply #19 on: March 10, 2014, 10:43:54 am »
Quote from: mikekeswick on March 10, 2014, 04:01:55 am
The problem then would have been the grain in the elm.
...

Perfect grain elm. (Perfect piece of ipé, too) The problem has been analysed by several bowyers, all came to the same conclusion.
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Frank from Germany...

Offline medicinewheel

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Re: ipe board.
« Reply #20 on: March 10, 2014, 10:44:28 am »
Quote from: mikekeswick on March 10, 2014, 04:01:55 am
...
I guarantee you that ipe can and will chyrsal at pin knots when it's heavily strained (even with good tiller) just like any other wood. I have pictures!

Yes, I have seen that, too. Several times.
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Frank from Germany...

Offline TimothyR

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Re: ipe board.
« Reply #21 on: March 10, 2014, 12:46:31 pm »
So if I made it light say 35-40# would that be ok?  40# is the minimum hunting weight here.   I have most of the knots in the handle.  But there are two knots one on the back and one in the belly. But I think I can get the one in the belly out.  And I also read about sealing the knots with super glue.  I want to try at least I don't have anything to lose.  If it holds up I will have a good bow and if it don't I'll have a good learning experience.  But you guys know more than i do.
Thanks  Timothy.
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Offline TimothyR

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Re: ipe board.
« Reply #22 on: March 10, 2014, 12:48:14 pm »
And what pictures are you guys talkin about? I'd like to see them if that possible.
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Offline medicinewheel

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Re: ipe board.
« Reply #23 on: March 10, 2014, 05:10:46 pm »
You might get lucky with 50 or 60# even. I'm not saying it happens all the time, just saying I've seen it happening. That is why myself, I wouldn't try. JMO so to speak.
Knots in the (stiff) handle are no problem of course, in the working part you want to try to avoid if possible. But even if they are there and develop frets it might still be a fine shooter.

A lot of 'problems' might not even appear if the tillering process runs perfect from floor tiller to full draw.
If it runs perfect...
 8) 8) 8)
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Frank from Germany...

Offline toomanyknots

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Re: ipe board.
« Reply #24 on: March 10, 2014, 05:15:27 pm »
I guess with bow making, ya don't always get the same answer.  :) Instead of blaming each other, I think we should blame wood for being inconsistent itself in nature!!!  >:( lol I thought elm was fantastic in tension by the way, I have heard it is better than hickory, and some warbow shooters have remarked they would prefer an elm backing to a hickory one? I remember reading that somewhere on here.
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"The way of heaven is like the bending of a bow-
 the upper part is pressed down,
 the lower part is raised up,
 the part that has too much is reduced,
 the part that has too little is increased."

- Tao Te Ching, 77, A new translation by Victor H. Mair

Offline adb

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Re: ipe board.
« Reply #25 on: March 10, 2014, 06:03:20 pm »
I've had poor luck with elm backings. Very prone to lifting a splinter. I've filed it with bamboo as a secondary and not very good backing material.
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Offline TimothyR

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Re: ipe board.
« Reply #26 on: March 10, 2014, 06:56:39 pm »
I'm going to give it a shot and post some pics as soon as I get it floor tillerd. I looked again and I have no knots in the belly..just one in  the back hopefully I can seal the knot with super glue and maybe the hickory back will hold it together... we shall see. Thanks for the advice.  It helps a lot. I've been trying to learn all this stuff on my own from reading and trial and error.   Im glad I found this forum.   :)
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Offline TimothyR

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Re: ipe board.
« Reply #27 on: April 04, 2014, 12:44:29 am »
I've got this thing ready for tillering. It is backed with ash. I had to put two together for the length so I put a thin stripe of ipe over the center. I know you cant see it but there are small ripples in the limbs...ive tried using a pocket knife and a sanding block but I cant seem to get them out. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.  Tim
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Offline adb

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Re: ipe board.
« Reply #28 on: April 04, 2014, 12:58:01 am »
Ipe is hard wood, and it's prone to washboard if you only work it with a scraper. If you want to get rid of the washboard, go over the limb with a fine rasp.
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Offline Cameroo

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Re: ipe board.
« Reply #29 on: April 04, 2014, 01:01:48 am »
Use a rasp or machinist file to get the ripples out.  Run it the length of the limb, keeping it as close to parallel as you can to the limb.  This will knock the high spots off while leaving the dips untouched.

I use a rasp early on in the tillering process, and then switch to a file later on to avoid making deep scratches in the wood.  I do this often in between scraping sessions, because sometimes the scraper itself induces a bit of "washboard" into the belly wood.
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