Author Topic: Stave questions  (Read 4054 times)

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Offline Ross.m.

  • Member
  • Posts: 70
Stave questions
« on: March 01, 2014, 09:47:26 pm »
Just cut a hickory stave today. I cut a 12 foot piece in half and then split one of the two pieces. The split went kind of weird, I got one really small piece and one large piece. This is the small piece.

View from top:

View from bottom:

The weird split gave me a very small stave, but I planned on making a pyramid, so the one thin end isn't as much of a problem.
The stave in total is about 56 inches in total.

There are also some pretty big knots I'll have to work through. Is it a lost cause? Any tips as to how I should proceed?(first time making a bow)
« Last Edit: March 01, 2014, 09:52:29 pm by Ross.m. »

Offline bubbles

  • Member
  • Posts: 932
  • PM110769
Re: Stave questions
« Reply #1 on: March 01, 2014, 10:03:21 pm »
56 is on the shorter side for whitewoods.  I would recommend a bendy handle short bow. 1.5" wide most of its length and probably heat treat the belly.   Other with more experience will weight in I'm sure.

Offline Ross.m.

  • Member
  • Posts: 70
Re: Stave questions
« Reply #2 on: March 01, 2014, 10:07:22 pm »
So more of a flat bow than a pyramid?

Offline JonW

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,906
Re: Stave questions
« Reply #3 on: March 01, 2014, 10:12:17 pm »
56" is perfect for a short bendy pyramid. Keep all the width you can.

Offline Ross.m.

  • Member
  • Posts: 70
Re: Stave questions
« Reply #4 on: March 01, 2014, 10:13:32 pm »
How do you make a bend in the handle as opposed to no bend? Tiller differently?

Offline JonW

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,906
Re: Stave questions
« Reply #5 on: March 01, 2014, 10:16:20 pm »

Offline bubbles

  • Member
  • Posts: 932
  • PM110769
Re: Stave questions
« Reply #6 on: March 01, 2014, 10:20:37 pm »
Bendy handle bend for the entire length of the bow, while stiff handles have an (usually) 8" length which is completely unbending,(much thicker than the workinglimb) usually with a grip carved in and a cut in shelf.  Do a search on the site for bendy handle and stiff handle

Offline Ross.m.

  • Member
  • Posts: 70
Re: Stave questions
« Reply #7 on: March 01, 2014, 10:31:11 pm »
That's exactly what I was looking for Jon! Any special tricks you used for that bow in particular?

Offline JonW

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,906
Re: Stave questions
« Reply #8 on: March 01, 2014, 10:34:21 pm »
No special tricks. Hickory likes a good heat treating.

Offline Ross.m.

  • Member
  • Posts: 70
Re: Stave questions
« Reply #9 on: March 01, 2014, 10:42:11 pm »
Do I need to chase rings with a hickory ?

Offline bubbles

  • Member
  • Posts: 932
  • PM110769
Re: Stave questions
« Reply #10 on: March 01, 2014, 11:16:05 pm »
Nope. That looks like the back of your bow right there in the picture. Unless its got some big gouges or scratches, that outer ring is the back of your bow.

Offline Ross.m.

  • Member
  • Posts: 70
Re: Stave questions
« Reply #11 on: March 01, 2014, 11:18:28 pm »
It does have some knots on the back. It is my understanding that if I leave them they will not be a weak point, right?

Offline huisme

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,036
  • I'm Marc, but not that Marc.
Re: Stave questions
« Reply #12 on: March 02, 2014, 02:13:33 am »
You might leave the knots a little bit stiff, but what's really important is that you follow the grain around them and don't cut through them. I've worked some ridiculous knots in my black locust and vine maple, the consistent performers are the ones where I played it safe and worked things down slowly.
50#@26"
Black locust. Black locust everywhere.
Mollegabets all day long.
Might as well make them short, save some wood to keep warm.

Offline Ross.m.

  • Member
  • Posts: 70
Re: Stave questions
« Reply #13 on: March 02, 2014, 12:25:09 pm »
Are these cracks too big? Can I still use this stave?

« Last Edit: March 02, 2014, 12:46:13 pm by Ross.m. »

Offline Pat B

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 37,618
Re: Stave questions
« Reply #14 on: March 02, 2014, 01:03:24 pm »
Seal the ends and you will prevent those checks. They are drying cracks and run with the grain.
 On your next long "pole" cut it down to bow length before you split it.  On 2" to 3" poles if I know the grain is straight I like to saw them in half lengthwise then bind the two halves back together with spacers between them for good air circulation.  This will prevent warping as they dry.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC