Author Topic: BL question  (Read 2362 times)

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Offline Blaflair2

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BL question
« on: February 21, 2014, 03:45:39 pm »
If BL likes a flat belly, would it be even better if concaved? Like Blackhawks scorpion sting. Not hollow limb just a little concavity
Nothing ventured nothing gained

Offline RBLusthaus

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Re: BL question
« Reply #1 on: February 21, 2014, 04:09:51 pm »
IMHO, only if the back is highly crowned, and even then, tough to pull off. 
Russ

Offline huisme

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Re: BL question
« Reply #2 on: February 21, 2014, 04:53:06 pm »
I've done a couple concave bellies and it seems the peaks like to chrysal if the tiller isn't completely perfect. It shot fine and eventually it stabilized, but I'm pretty sure those peaks are just dead weight on the bow now. I'd definitely stick with high crown if I did it again.
50#@26"
Black locust. Black locust everywhere.
Mollegabets all day long.
Might as well make them short, save some wood to keep warm.

Offline IdahoMatt

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Re: BL question
« Reply #3 on: February 21, 2014, 05:04:32 pm »
I've done a couple concave bellies and it seems the peaks like to chrysal if the tiller isn't completely perfect. It shot fine and eventually it stabilized, but I'm pretty sure those peaks are just dead weight on the bow now. I'd definitely stick with high crown if I did it again.

No to high jack but,  do you have BL bows with chrysals that sre fine to shoot? With longevity?

Offline huisme

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Re: BL question
« Reply #4 on: February 21, 2014, 05:23:01 pm »
Yeah, as long as I can tell what will chrysal and why I either remove it or let it be. The mollegabet I posted about a while should be chrysaling a little more in the bottom limb before it stabilizes-- or maybe I overestimated there, but I knew that the high ridge to compensate for twist would do that. Unless it's overdrawn after the chrysals are done expanding, they should be fine. I'm up to four hundred arrows through that bow, I think, and it hasn't lost a pound of draw or any discernible cast since the first hundred. Still a fast shooter.

I've also had mild chrysaling all up and down both limbs of an unreasonably heavy bow pose no issue. It survived just past three hundred arrows before I whacked a tree with the top overlay and it delaminated. It was more bow than I'll ever need so I wasn't too sad about it.

It's when the chrysals go all the way across the belly or deep into the limb that I know I goofed. Surface chrysals mean the surface won't be working until a little later into the draw when they come together, deep chrysals mean the limb is trying to come apart from the wrong end without the decency to explode.

But now I know I'll finish writing this, pick up that molle, and it'll fall apart from the chrysals because it knows I've opened my big mouth ::)
50#@26"
Black locust. Black locust everywhere.
Mollegabets all day long.
Might as well make them short, save some wood to keep warm.

Offline IdahoMatt

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Re: BL question
« Reply #5 on: February 21, 2014, 05:29:01 pm »
That's interesting Marc.  I just had a BL bow get them I posted about.  I have shot it quite a bit and same thing.  Tiller still looks great and still the same weight.  Maybe I'm just being hopefull but I'll run her till she blows.

Offline Onebowonder

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Re: BL question
« Reply #6 on: February 21, 2014, 05:31:30 pm »
<snip>
But now I know I'll finish writing this, pick up that molle, and it'll fall apart from the chrysals because it knows I've opened my big mouth ::)

Which is EXACTLY why I never speak in English around my bows while they are being born and created.  I stick to 100% Spanish with a mild admixture delution of epithets and minced oathes in a variety of other languages.  That way they just think I'm bragging on them when I speak in English!  :)

OneBow


 

Offline Blaflair2

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Re: BL question
« Reply #7 on: February 21, 2014, 05:38:17 pm »
The back is flat. Like flat flat.
Nothing ventured nothing gained

Offline huisme

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Re: BL question
« Reply #8 on: February 21, 2014, 05:43:26 pm »
The back is flat. Like flat flat.

Then I, personally, wouldn't be super eager to try it, but I know I didn't bend the fades of my attempt as much as I should have so if you're careful about tiller you could/should have better results.
50#@26"
Black locust. Black locust everywhere.
Mollegabets all day long.
Might as well make them short, save some wood to keep warm.

Offline Blaflair2

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Re: BL question
« Reply #9 on: February 21, 2014, 06:09:06 pm »
Well I'm a foolish man, not an idiot. She'll stay flat.

Also if I heat treat it I don't have to trap it?
Nothing ventured nothing gained

Offline huisme

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Re: BL question
« Reply #10 on: February 21, 2014, 08:36:01 pm »
It's black locust so trapping will always help, but my mollegabet with a relatively flat back isn't trapped, just heat treated. I think if you're careful not to get greedy with draw weight you should be fine. If things do look like they're going to go downhill you can trap then to reduce weight and relative strain on the belly simultaneously.
50#@26"
Black locust. Black locust everywhere.
Mollegabets all day long.
Might as well make them short, save some wood to keep warm.

Offline Blaflair2

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Re: BL question
« Reply #11 on: February 21, 2014, 08:57:52 pm »
Is 55-60# asking too much of my old girl? I wanna nail a deer to a tree with her! Unless she's nicer than the other and my recipient will nail a deer to a tree! Well see. The statics are like 90 degrees. I'm pretty proud of her. Hopefully I do tom justice
Nothing ventured nothing gained

Offline George Tsoukalas

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Re: BL question
« Reply #12 on: February 21, 2014, 10:04:25 pm »
BL is strong in tension medium in compression so a trapped cross section with the belly a little wider may work well.Never tried it.

I hate to disagree; chrysals are almost always fatal (bow folds up like a book). Could be sooner...could be later.

Localized chrysals are tiller issues....limb bending too much in area.

Chrysals spread over large areas of the limbs are design issues...limbs too narrow or too short.

Even the tiny ones go deeper than one would think.

Jawge
Set Happens!
If you ain't breakin' you ain't makin!

Offline JW_Halverson

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Re: BL question
« Reply #13 on: February 21, 2014, 10:14:45 pm »
Having built exactly 0 (zero) bows from BL, take this for what it is worth.  But I have been reading on this wood and filing away every snicket of information from those that have had success.  Here is my theory on a BL bow:

1) Pyramid, wiiiiide at the base, maybe up to 2"
2) Trap so that the belly is wider than the back
3) Give yourself plenty of length
4) NEVER rush the tiller, stalk it slowly and carefully. 

Your thoughts, folks?
Guns have triggers. Bicycles have wheels. Trees and bows have wooden limbs.

Offline huisme

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Re: BL question
« Reply #14 on: February 21, 2014, 11:05:57 pm »
Is 55-60# asking too much of my old girl? I wanna nail a deer to a tree with her! Unless she's nicer than the other and my recipient will nail a deer to a tree! Well see. The statics are like 90 degrees. I'm pretty proud of her. Hopefully I do tom justice

This one, right?
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,44576.msg601624.html#msg601624

It looks like there's still fifty to fifty five pounds in there, maybe more if you're really careful and you build up the handle again.
I just realized I misspoke and said I've tried concave bellies "a couple" times, but I've only attempted one.

George, not going to disagree completely but I've had my different experiences.

JW, only thing I'd disagree with is that BL has to be wiiiiiide. Careful tiller, heat treating, and trapping can make a bow only 20% wider than osage. BL loves to be a mollegabet, too ;)
50#@26"
Black locust. Black locust everywhere.
Mollegabets all day long.
Might as well make them short, save some wood to keep warm.