Working on a static recurve

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Started a static recurve a few days ago. In my typical 'gotta make it a laminate' mindset, that's exactly what I've done.

Hickory backed ipe, bulbous handle. Hicory static tips. 62" tip to tip. 5" grip, with 6" laminate in the riser.

I did the statis tips like big tip overlays. Made them with a 5" gluing surface, tapered to a knife's edge, and then the hickory backing over top for 4", again tapering down to a fine edge on the back. I'm thrilled with the glue lines and transition glue lines. Better than I had hoped.

Got it profiled and belly tapered a bit, just have to refine the tips a bit more. I need to think about reducing mass without making them weak before I start tillering. Any suggestions, anyone who has done this?

[PEARL DRUMS]

Narrower is always better than thinner for tips in my opinion. Pics my friend! Pics!

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Some more pics of the glue lines and transition glue lines. First one is looking at the backing, where the hickory tapers into the static tip. Second one from the side, where the tip and backing transitions come together. If you look close, you can see the transitions.

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PEARLIE... you're too quick! Now there's pics.

[Parnell]

Interesting!

[PEARL DRUMS]

Adam Im cooking up the exact same thing, except Im using a kerf cut to get my recurves. Nice glue work man.

[PEARL DRUMS]

What did you use for glue?

[BOWMAN53]

ive got one in the works like that except its a bendy handle

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Yup... this is definitely outside the box for me!

OK, Chris... refined the tip thickness some more... in the above pics, the tips are3/4" wide. I now have them down to 5/8". I'm paying very close attention to my tip alignment as I'm reducing width. I think this will be important to avoid this thing from rolling over when I get a string on it.

For those of you doing static recurves, what do you think about my basic design? Will it hold up? Do the tips have enough strength? I have 5" of glue surface on the belly side, and 4" of glue surface on the backing. My glue lines are good, so that feels OK. I'm only looking for 45#@26", so not overly stressed. I know this is a highly stressed design, but will mine hold up?

Also, I need to do some sort of tips. I'm thinking pin nocks, with an overlay. I know I need to cut some deep string grooves on the back of the static tip. Should I do that now, or will that limit me later in terms of string alignment? Can I start to tiller without them?

OK... progress updates as it comes.

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What did you use for glue?

TB3. It's done everything I've ever asked of it, if I do my part correctly.

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I was trying to do this sort of splice, but I just couldn't pull it off. I couldn't get the inside splice lines smooth enough to make a strong glue joint. Plus, with my design, I don't have to add a belly underlay. I can just tiller away as usual, and it won't weaken the joint.

I'm not sure who's glue up this is (PatM, maybe?), and I hope you don't mind me using it.  If you'd like to offer your wisdom on how you did this, I'm all ears.

[PEARL DRUMS]

What did you use for glue?

TB3. It's done everything I've ever asked of it, if I do my part correctly.

Glad to hear it. Im using the same. Its never once failed me in anyway.

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Me neither. Why not this?

What do you think about this tip design? Strong enough? I have 22" of working limb, to get 45#@26". That leaves about 4-5" on non-bending tip on each limb, and 6" of non-bending grip.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Twist will be critical, but I see no reason yours wont hold up just fine. You have the grain running the right way on your tip and with the back over that glue line I cant see how it can come apart.

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Good to hear... that's what I'm hoping!