unbacked board bow

[arachnid]

Hi Guys.

I`ve been wondering, What do I look in a board if I want to make the bow unbacked (beside stright grain, of corse)?
Do I need anything else? growth Rings?
All of my bow up until now were backed and I realy want to try an unbacked bow.
Is there any difference in the making proccess?

Thanks in advance.
Dor

[bow101]

Pick out a piece that is quarter sawn, having very little grain run-off.  And build it at least 64-68" NTN and 1 3/4" at the fades,  if the tillering works out it should be just fine.
Recently I am using 1 1/2" maple that I rip then flip the peices face to face factory side, glue them up, this eliminates any twist because the grain is now opposite.  I am just toying around with trying to glue in reflex and deflex.
Its a learning experience, but hey you learn from doing.

[bubby]

I build lots of board bows, flat ring , riftsawn , quartersawn will all work fine, just get the best grain you can on all sides, my personal favorite is hard maple, bub

[DarkSoul]

When selecting a board to make an unbacked selfbow from, you need to look for three things. First is straight grain. The second, and most important thing, is that you need straight grain. Finally, you also need straight grain.
I'm not trying to mess with you here. Straight grain sounds so simple...but it isn't. You cannot take any grain run off for granted. It must be straight on all four sides, from tip to tip. Straight grain does NOT mean the same as growth rings running from tip to tip.

Read the Traditional Bowyers Bible vol. 1 on wood selection, and Traditional Bowyer Bible vol. 2 chapter on 'Board bows'. It will help you tremendously.

There are other things to look for in boards, but that depends on the wood species. Straight grain, however, must always be your priority. Only then you can look for good earlywood/latewood ratio (if applicable), heartwood versus sapwood, specific gravity, (dis)coloration etc.

[George Tsoukalas]

Any board cut will do. Plain and rift sawn allow for a few run ups for 50-55# but 1/4 sawn allows none. The grain must be straight tip to tip.
My site has info.
Jawge

http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/

[bushboy]

design is critical and reading the set as you tiller.if youn can keep most of the set in the mid limb it better.if it takes alot of set in the inner limbs it translates to a pile of set at the tips which means it has been over stressed and likely to fail in compression or tension or neither and your left with a wet noodle.