Need a little help

[Pat B]

A few years ago James Parker gave me a nice lemonwood stave(3/4" thick board). I've never worked lemonwood but I decided to go for a hickory backed American Longbow style. I will be adding a riser to the belly side and need some advise on the length of the riser.
 The bow will be 68" t/t, 1 1/2" at the fades and pyramidal limbs with the taper starting at the fades. I will have a 4" handle and 4" fades like the old ALBs had. Do I want to add a 12" or 14" riser at glue-up? I'll build it for a 28" max draw.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Id suggest 14" Pat. That gives you plenty of room to feather it into your fades without getting to far back in the handle.

[PEARL DRUMS]

And, that smells like one smooooooth design. My last few had 4" handles and 3" fades. real nice feel.

[Pat B]

I was thinking that too, Pearlie. I'll probably end up with a shorter riser after the tillering because of the thickness of the stave plus the backing but it should all b lend in better starting out with the longer riser.

[blackhawk]

Sounds like my kinda rig....either or will be fine IMO....but I'd go 14" if I could...I like a long as possible riser(handle n fades) cus it aids in a lil more stability in the bow and the shot....plus longer fades creates a very aesthetically pleasing blend into the handle

Oh and you might wanna think about using a powerlam....don't have to but that will help your riser and handle area out IMO

[Pat B]

Thanks Chris. I'll go with the 14" riser.
This bow will be asymmetrical like the true ALBs were. The handle will be 1 1/4" above the center line and 2 3/4" below.

[blackhawk]

Sounds like a fantastic plan Stan!!! 

[Pat B]

Well, here is another question...the riser is a solid block of ERC and I've shaped it and have it ready to go. I'm adding about 3/4" of reflex at glue-up so it should settle out flat or slightly reflexed off the form. Should I glue up the stave and backing and add the riser after or glue the riser to the stave and add the backing later? There is enough flex in the ERC riser so it will give a little when needed. I'm planning on using Urac to glue the backing and the handle.
 I plan to use tightly wrapped inner tube bands on the glue-up and clamp the handle to pull it into reflex. I may have to use extra clamps at the fades and the tips but that isn't a problem.

[mullet]

Sounds like a good idea to me, also. I figured chris would go with a 22" riser and an 80 NTN.

[Pat B]

...and made out of poplar. 

[blackhawk]

Sounds like a good idea to me, also. I figured chris would go with a 22" riser and an 80 NTN.

Lmao... ...ya know that sounds too short to me   

[PEARL DRUMS]

Pat when I made more lam bows I always glued my riser on then glue the back on the next day. I didn't want to take a chance of that handle area not being flat/parallel after reflex was added. I would put the core belly facing down, after glue was applied to it and the backer. Then place the backer on and place a clamp at each fade to be sure it didn't separate on me. Then Id lift the tips to my desired reflex and finish clamping. Hope that makes sense. I don't have pics.

[blackhawk]

I always feel awkward giving you advice/my opinion..cus your my repescted elder....

Anyways...I know I always wait to glue a riser section on after I glue the back n belly up,and so do most other guys I know....but maybe we do it because were able to put deflex or shape into the handle area and this allows us to do that...and you can easiky make it fit after without much issue honestly(especially if ya already got good wood working skills,which you do)....personally it can be a pain too trying to glue too many pieces at once...and personally a solid erc block would be one of my last choices for a riser block/glued on handle...to light of wood for me,and not as much physical weight there as a dense piece of wood would be....I like a strong wooded handle for added weight for slight stability gains...and not as prone to getting dinged up....but that's just me and my personal preference...I'd rather use the erc as an accent stripe with a denser wood as the main bulk of the handle....

[mullet]

Yea, he's an Elder alright, all of those trees are older then dirt when they start getting good.

[PEARL DRUMS]

I think the Torges R/D BBO craze is what prompted a latter gluing of the handle. It allowed the incurred deflex to be traced unto the riser block for a perfect fit.