Where is center?

[nclonghunter]

I will try and ask this in a way that makes sense...wish me luck 

1.) Is the center of the bow (length) in the handle or where the arrow will be shot from?

2.) For a four inch handle and the center of the bow is in the handle, that would mean the arrow is being shot at least two inches above center?

3.) So, when tillering is the string pulled from the center of the handle or place the bow two inches above center, then even the limbs?

4.) On "D" shaped bows I like to use the center of length and shoot the arrow from the center of length, but that puts my hand below center. If the bow is center tillered then my hand below center would make the bow bend different I think, right?

I think these questions are applied to both a "D" shaped bow and a static handle bow....thanks for your help!

[Del the cat]

1. The centre is in the geometric centre.
2. With a 4" grip, usually 1" is above the centre, 3" below centre.
Arrow pass is immediately above the grip and thus 1" above the geometric centre.
Howver, you can build a bow any way you like... just look at those Japanese bows.
3. When tillering I support the bow where the hand will take most pressure, e.g Just about centre of the grip or just above, about 1" below the arrow pass. I pull the string from where the arrow will be nocked.
4. Right.... Its impossible to support the bow dead centre and nock the arrow dead centre, unles you like the fletchings ripping into your hand and the arrow porpoising.
Del

[mikekeswick]

1 - Center of the length of the nock to nock measurement
2 - Correct! And you would nock the arrow an 1/8 to 3/16ths above a line square to the top of the handle making the nocking point 2 inch plus 18th or so above actual center.
3 - You can do it either way. The goal is always for the bow to be balanced in the hand when drawn - this doesn't necessarily mean the same thing as balanced on a tillering board ( unless you adjust the design for the string to be pulled the same as when drawn by hand. Dean Togres has a good design for a tillering tree in his book 'Hunting the Osage Bow'
4 - Right it would make the lower limb weak. So adjust the way you tiller to accomodate for this. Some people use mirrors, some take photos of the bow drawn, some do it just by feel....many ways to achieve the same thing 
I tend to use my tillering board using a center pulled string for the first few inches. Then only pull it with the adjusted string pull out to 4 -6 inches short of full draw then use feel and keep a very close ye on set.

[DuBois]

Howdy,
I am still a toddler at this stuff but I thought this was a really good article and I tend to agree with it's logic. I have started trying to find the spot my hand will press or grip most and using that for my dynamic center.
Hope this helps,
Marco
http://www.bowyersedge.com/organic.html

[Joec123able]

My arrow rests are usually close to 1 3/4 above center but I don't do any measurements so I don't know

[dmenzies1950]

As in most areas of primitive archery this is an issue that is often debated. I have built bows both ways and I honestly have never noticed that there was a difference in how well I shot. You will find arguments from both camps with accomplished archers in each, as well as reasonal rational for either. That being said, You will have to be the one to decide! Just my observation!                 Dale 

[vinemaplebows]

Personally I think it makes more of a difference on HOW you shoot split finger, or three under. I shoot 3 under, and like a slightly shorter stiffer lower limb. If you can put the arrow where you want, then it makes little difference....it's choice.

VMB

[George Tsoukalas]

I tiller from the center but final tiller is done in the hand in front of a mirror, digi pic or window at  night. The arrow is shot about 1.25 in above center but that is not a given. Depends on the tiller of the bottom limb. If it needs to be stiffer I'll shoot a bit lower.
Jawge

[chamookman]

You silly Guys - it's right where the letter C with the line thru it is ! 

[Pappy]

Thats where my center is also chamookman. My center is center of the bow n-n,now that doesn't mean that is where the arrow pass is. It is usually 1 1/2 or2 inches above that depending on how the bow shoots. I don't have a set arrow pass until I shoot the bow some,I move up and down a little until I find the sweet spot,then make that and that is the arrow pass.
 Pappy

[nclonghunter]

Thanks for the sharing all the great knowledge on this forum. Dean Torges article is interesting and detailed. Sorta like others process of equal center tillering then adjust from there. Working on a 67 inch hickory "D" bow now and will apply what I have learned..Thanks

[adb]

Aaaah... the age old debate! Do you tiller from geometric center? Or arrow pass? Do you make both limbs equal length? Depends who you ask. Dean Torges will tell you to make the bottom limb shorter and tiller from the arrow pass, to provide a bow with better "balance."

IMO, I don't think it matters a whole bunch. Making the tiller shape correct for design is more important. That being said, on flatbows with a grip, I tiller from geometric center and make the longer bottom limb a bit stiffer to compensate. For warbows and ELBs, I also tiller from geometric center, but make the arrow pass at center or maybe 1/2" above.

When all is said and done, I don't call a bow a bow until I have full draw pictures by hand. How the bow looks on tiller and how it looks in hand sometimes differ. It's how the tiller looks while drawn by hand that matters to me.

[PEARL DRUMS]

You silly Guys - it's right where the letter C with the line thru it is ! 

Bingo!