Author Topic: Need some cojones (Read 5255 times)

Wooden Spring · « **Reply #15 on:** December 10, 2013, 12:28:06 pm »

Just pull it until it explodes! You'll never learn anything if you don't break wood. Besides, big splinters make a really cool whirring noise as they zip by your head.
When in doubt, wear a helmet!

Jodocus · « **Reply #16 on:** December 10, 2013, 01:05:01 pm »

I once pulled a hazel deliberately further than sensible.

I squeezed my eyes, ears and nostrils, awaiting the blow...

The damn thing just got soft and folded

The mass formula really is a big help in cases like this (ie when you're not sure if a bow can take some more) and I'd like to thank badger for working so hard to spread it in the community.

It would have taken me many years to work this out by sheer experience.

Carson (CMB) · « **Reply #17 on:** December 10, 2013, 01:56:14 pm »

You might be experiencing stack. Beginners typically get mid and outer limbs bending, but dont seem to get the inner limb/fade area working. Basically, whip-tillered bows have higher string angles, which equates to stack. If it feels like it is hitting a wall, check your inner limbs and see if you might need to get them working more. Pulling it further after it is really stacking, is just going to cause lots of set.

Don Case · « **Reply #18 on:** December 10, 2013, 02:01:52 pm »

I guess if you are on a "long string" the bow is going to stack sooner, right? So maybe shortening the string may help?

Carson (CMB) · « **Reply #19 on:** December 10, 2013, 11:25:27 pm »

Yup. How long is your long string? It should be only long enough.

Don Case · « **Reply #20 on:** December 11, 2013, 12:06:10 am »

I just wanted to take a quick look to see how stiff it was so I just grabbed the nearest string. It's a couple inches too long. I'll shorten it. I also got a new block for the bottom of my tillering pole. The old one had a 1" sheave and the new one is 2". Makes a big difference. It's also a much better block which helps. While I was at Canadian Tire I got a luggage scale. It goes to 70# which is more than I will use. It has a 3" dial so I can see it. It cost $7. I'll test the calibration tomorrow.

steve b. · « **Reply #21 on:** December 11, 2013, 12:15:31 am »

Long string:

Don Case · « **Reply #22 on:** December 11, 2013, 12:42:58 am »

That's kinda infinite string isn't it? Is that your 2 piece?

PEARL DRUMS · « **Reply #23 on:** December 11, 2013, 12:28:42 pm »

Get a bigger pulley Don. If your hands feel less weight your mind wont try to scare you. Sounds crazy, but its real.

steve b. · « **Reply #24 on:** December 11, 2013, 12:36:19 pm »

Yea, its the TD. I was actually thinking about you Don when I was working this because I could see I was going to have to do some bending, reflexing, decrowning, and backing of this OS bow and thought it might help answer some of your earlier questions.

These are two different billets of OS. One is flat, bumpy, and snakey and the other is smooth and crowned. The crowned limb has a lever that is leaning to the side and causing the string to be just off center. So that will need correcting.

The flat limb has some drying checks and a deflex near the lever fade. So that will need correcting. I wasn't sure but it looked like one drying check was moving toward the edge as I was tillering. This pushed me to make the decision to back that working part of the limb and cover that check.
And so I'd have to decrown the other limb and do the same. (which I had desperately been wanting to do from the beginning).

Pics are lousy as usual but you can see the check moving to the edge, the bent lever (corrected it last night, came out good), the decrowned limb (decrowned only the working part). Today I'll begin backing and/or reflexing that one outer limb.......

steve b. · « **Reply #25 on:** December 11, 2013, 12:37:56 pm »

Tom Leemans · « **Reply #26 on:** December 11, 2013, 12:42:56 pm »

I guess I'm missing the point here. I realize your previous scale was a bit sketchy, but, assuming you have a good scale, you would never exceed the target draw weight. If you haven't reached the target draw length at that weight, you have more reducing to do.