Author Topic: Snaky bows  (Read 3291 times)

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Don Case

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Snaky bows
« on: December 08, 2013, 02:31:39 pm »
On my last bow I had problems with a sideways bend causing the tip to twist off. If I draw a centerline on the bow following the curves how far away from the bowstring line should I try to be?
 It's the distance between the arrows that I'm talking about. Does it  make any difference how close the bend is to the tip?
Thanks
Don

Offline Blaflair2

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Re: Snaky bows
« Reply #1 on: December 08, 2013, 04:11:24 pm »
It haut has to line up in the handle. And remove the twist from the limb. And ull be good
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Don Case

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Re: Snaky bows
« Reply #2 on: December 08, 2013, 04:28:51 pm »
So you think the distance between the arrows doesn't matter?

Offline Blaflair2

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Re: Snaky bows
« Reply #3 on: December 08, 2013, 04:49:23 pm »
My first bow had one whole limb on the side of the string. As long as the bow is bending even and flat it shouldn't matter.
Nothing ventured nothing gained

Offline bubby

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Re: Snaky bows
« Reply #4 on: December 08, 2013, 04:49:42 pm »
As long as you can get the string across the handle area your ok, don't have to be perfect just close
l
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Offline Del the cat

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Re: Snaky bows
« Reply #5 on: December 08, 2013, 04:52:30 pm »
Just my opinion...
I think 'cos you are fairly near the tip you'll prob' be ok, Just leave a bit extra width there during tillering in case it tries to twist.
If you only remove wood from the left edge the tip (as we look at it in the pic) it will help minimise the gap between edge of bow and string. I think it's a compromise between rigidly following the centre line and trying to minimise problems of too much missalignment.
I'd probably compromise with the stringline at the grip and the other end a tad too. Maybe mow the string line a whisker towards where the arrow pass will be and mabe the alignment at the other end to try and minimise that gap.
Leave both tips wide to allow adjustment as she starts to come back. Once it's drawing about 18" it will probably have started to settle.
Come to think of it 'compromise' pretty much sums up working with staves.
Dunno if that's any help?
Del
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Offline huisme

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Re: Snaky bows
« Reply #6 on: December 08, 2013, 04:58:08 pm »
Y'mean like this?

50#@26"
Black locust. Black locust everywhere.
Mollegabets all day long.
Might as well make them short, save some wood to keep warm.

Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: Snaky bows
« Reply #7 on: December 08, 2013, 05:57:34 pm »
I prefer the string to center the handle and stay mostly within the body of the bow. Extreme case like above tend to haver a short life in my experience, too much torque at the apex of the snake outside the string.
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Offline steve b.

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Re: Snaky bows
« Reply #8 on: December 08, 2013, 06:18:00 pm »
I agree with PD.  Like I said, Don, I've shot bows like that but now I would correct it.  Especially OS.  I just did a slightly smaller version OS where the last 8" or so "leaned over" to one side.  A little bit of heat and it straightened right out.  I tortured tested it and it stayed put.  I'm sure with a little more heating care yours would have corrected just fine.  Then the string would have left the handle so you would have had to either correct the other limb, if it needed it, in the opposite direction, or bend the handle slightly.

Don Case

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Re: Snaky bows
« Reply #9 on: December 08, 2013, 06:45:26 pm »
This is the "before" picture. It did straighten out with steam. I was just using this picture as a bad example. I was trying to find out how much snake I could get away with. I'm now on bow 3 and I want to get the straightening over with before I start tillering. This cold snap is playing havoc with the RH. If I get the garage up to a livable temperature the RH drops to below 20%. I'm not sure if that contributed to bow 2's "lifting a splinter"
Don

Offline wood_bandit 99

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Re: Snaky bows
« Reply #10 on: December 08, 2013, 06:46:40 pm »
Man that sucks. I have a stave that I was gonna name elephant because it looks like an elephant trunk. It is completely without twist yet it has tight snakes both from the side and from the front view of the stave. I still am going to make it even if the limbs don't match up with the string. How much does it shorten the life? How many shots could you get out of one?
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Offline huisme

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Re: Snaky bows
« Reply #11 on: December 08, 2013, 08:45:08 pm »
I prefer the string to center the handle and stay mostly within the body of the bow. Extreme case like above tend to haver a short life in my experience, too much torque at the apex of the snake outside the string.

The far knock pulls the string to center. If it was right in line with the limb you can see I'd be worried too; 'off center' strings don't pull off center: all they'll do is torque in your hand until the string and handle are in line.

The snake in the limb can be left and tillered carefully as long as it doesn't pull the string off center.
50#@26"
Black locust. Black locust everywhere.
Mollegabets all day long.
Might as well make them short, save some wood to keep warm.

Offline Del the cat

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Re: Snaky bows
« Reply #12 on: December 09, 2013, 03:59:10 am »
Ah, I didn't realise this was a theoretical question.
There is no 'right' answer with a snakey bow, go as mad as the wood!
It really depends why you are making it, are you making a snakey, to show how extreme it can be, to show your skill, for display or to make a real usefull shooter.
Del
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Offline crooketarrow

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Re: Snaky bows
« Reply #13 on: December 09, 2013, 08:17:17 am »
  As long as tips line up with the handle. It will be fine.
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Offline Pappy

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Re: Snaky bows
« Reply #14 on: December 09, 2013, 08:28:46 am »
What PD said,at least in most cases, they can be really tricky to tiller ,I have made several like that but I will say that even tho they stayed together and shot an arrow they weren't the best shooters I have made. It seems that if the snake is about the same on both limbs just in opposite directions and bisect the handle they do much better than just one limb snaking off. JMO.  :)  :) Cool looking stave,can't wait to see it all finished up. :)
 Pappy
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