Attaching tips

[PatM]

I'll try the rubber band next time. I prefer epoxy over CA. I have a mistrust of CA that is taking time to go away.

im not a fan of epoxy anymore, it leaves a gap and you dont get good glue lines.

YOU leave a gap and don't get good glue lines.... Epoxy works as well as the person using it.

[bubby]

Good one Pat, it's a poor craftsman that blames his tools, jordo lol

[okie64]

Spring clamps and whatever glue I have handy in the shop, usually tb2 or 3.

[bow101]

I make the tip material at least a 1/4" proud from the sides and do an initial clamp using the vice, when the glue becomes somewhat tacky after the initial squeeze out then I use the small c-clamps and bobs your uncle.

[steve b.]

I just glue it and clamp it with a cheesy plastic spring clamp.  never a problem.

[Don Case]

 It's this tip that was giving me grief. When I clamped the two together the tip wanted to squeeze off the end of the bow. I managed but it was a PITA. I had to pick the clamp and the tip off the floor twice.

[wood_bandit 99]

I sometimes hot glue on the edge of the epoxy and then clamp

[steve b.]

My tips start out as blocks of wood, the top of which I make parallel to the belly of the bow so the clamp pinches it together firmly.

[H Rhodes]

I have gotten to where I much prefer pin nocks on most of my bows, but when I do glue on an overlay i prefer tightbond and rubber bands.  Liquid loctite superglue works great too, and has the advantage of allowing you to go back to work on the tips in an hour or so.  If I had to go with just one type of glue for all my bow building it would be Tite bond 3 - I haven't had it fail me yet.

[Pappy]

Spring clamp and super glue, Like Blackhawk, hadn't had any problems doing it that way.
   Pappy

[NeolithicMan]

I make the tip material larger than needed and score the area lightly. I use TB3 and wrap the tip with hemp twine. if the tip material is larger than the tip its self the hemp twine wont get glued on too... most of the time.

I have glued finger prints all over my work shop too!

John

[Pat B]

I have used TB glues, thin and gel super glue or 2ton epoxy, all with good results.
 I also pre-shape the overlays, at least the rear taper so I don't mar the back of the limb tip trying to get a good transition between the overlay and the limb tip.

[Don Case]

This just amazes me! Sounds like I'm the only person in the western hemisphere that has this problem This kind of joint has always been a problem for me. Trying to glue one tapered piece to another the parts always slide. The pieces will clamp together dry but as soon as the glue goes on it slides. I can see thin CA working but you need an almost perfect joint for that stuff. In the past I have sometimes resorted to gluing a wedge to both sides so that I have parallel clamping surfaces. I have also drilled a hole through the joint to pin it. Maybe I'm using too much glue but I don't think that's the case. Oh well, if that's the biggest problem in my life, I'm alright!
Thanks for the input, I will try rubber bands and CA
Don

[Carson (CMB)]

Don, I use loctite pro.  It is thin.  I have used other gel and medium Ca glues, but I like the thin best. I have used other brand CA glues because the price of loctite is outrageous, but soon I went back to the Loctite brand.  I dont use an accelerator.  The type I use certainly doesn't need it.  It is set in ~5 seconds, and I have started shaping the tips less than 20 minutes later.  It is incredible stuff. 

Keep in mind CA glue does have a shelf life.  I store mine in the fridge when not in use and don't use any bottles over a year old for crucial things like tips. 

[Carson (CMB)]

Don, that is the beauty of just using yer digits and a fast setting super glue.  All that hastle goes away, and your only problem is glue on your fingers...but sounds like you already have that problem anyway