Bryce
your explanation gives me some pointers that I have not heard before. Thanks
But on the other hand,
Try to nail the thickness taper on the bandsaw.
Floor tiller about 4" of tip movement
Brace, make the brace profile as perfect as possible.
These parts of the process are more like goals to me than instructions, but of course you mentioned that.....
(takes awhile to get a good eye for that)
so opened this thread with the intention of learning more about how that is done.
Perhaps I can ask my question another way.
If I have my bow bending about 6" on the tiller tree, what should I be seeing and feeling so that I do not have to overwork it inch by inch to final draw length?
willie
I guess I can get a little more detailed.
Now Iam by no means claiming to be good at tillering. That is just my process.
I brace it as soon as possible at 4"(<--brace hieght)
Once that is done you will clearly see any flaws in the tiller.
Then I'll tiller out to about 12"-18" of draw. Then fully brace the bow which is usually 6" or so. Now at the point I've got a really nice brace, not pulling over my desired weight (+5lbs of course) and if the brace profile needs to be tweaked this is the time. No more rasp.
And tillering just becomes more about long even strokes of wood removal, along with excercising and checking weight till the bow reaches full draw. Then I will break the bow in by shooting 25 arrows. Check tiller, shoot 25, check tiller until live shot it around 100 times and if I'm satisfied I'll put a finish on it. If not... I'll throw it in the corner.
Sometimes making small heat treating corrections come into play but I will not go into that.
More or less like this
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,3895.15.html