Different woods different styles

[akswift]

Hi Steve
I have a question that goes back to the last paragraph of your opening post.

 

The first thing I decided was that a pyramid design wouldn't allow me the lattitude I needed in thickness adjustment so I opted for a modified version of the american flatbow.

However, as I read what follows, it seems that you are referring to tillering  by removing wood from the sides of the bow?

And....

The rate of taper I have been using is very similar to that of the English Longbows. It starts off almost imperceptable and gradually grows steeper as it nears the tip. Not a straight line like you might see on a pyramid.

Is this also referring to removing wood from the sides?

I hope you don't think I am  trying to be picky about your writing,  I am just trying to  understand your methods of tillering better.
Thanks for sharing 

[Badger]

 Akswift, yes I do side tiller once I establish how much mass I am needing in the bow.

[Bryce]

ive always said that the paddle bow was a sophisticated design:) wide and flat and pulls 22-24'' of draw

[PatM]

Does it win speed and distance contests?

[Bryce]

draws to short




(as if thats all that hold it back hahaha)

[akswift]

Badger
Thanks for clearing that up about side tillering.

Do you mean to say that before you tiller the sides, you bring the thickness down with the assistance of a weight scale? 

ak

[wood_bandit 99]

Man! I wish I had a whole year to experiment on this! So far my favorite design as far as having a mindset of a hunter (priorities of speed aren't as high as others) I have realized a pretty straight taper from 1/4-3/4 of the limb then tapering a little bit faster, the bow smokes an arrow and is very quiet and accurate. I am excited because if your design theory is correct, I will have an absolutely amazing yew flatbow done in a month or so.

[Arrowind]

very interesting!

[Gordon]

I came to the conclusion a few years ago that the less you have to pull a bow during tillering, the better the outcome. I start by making the thickness taper of each limb as perfect as I can by feel and floor tillering. When I'm satisfied that I've tapered the limbs as good as I can using that technique, the bow is usually ready for the short string. If there is a problem, it will be revealed by the braced bow  - there is no need to pull it further. I'll make the brace as perfect as I can and then it is usually a simple matter of removing wood evenly from both limbs to achieve final weight using Steve's no set tiller technique. My tree is used sparingly in this process.

It's interesting that Steve has come to prefer a parallel limb design with most of the taper occurring in the last 12 inches of the limbs. I came to a similar conclusion as that was the design that I seemed to consistently get the best results from.

Good discussion Steve!

[Bryce]

Been doing the same Gordon, once you have a really good looking braced profile tillering becomes incredible simple. I came to it by making the parallel section of my VM bows longer and longer. At this point Iam measuring 14.5" from center line as the parallel section not counting the fades and handle. Which doesn't leave the last 12" tapered, but just over. I will try 12" from the nock point once I get gabes bow finished

[Buckeye Guy]

Steve you missed this fellows question I think !

Chapter?  where can i read it?  Mass principal?  seen the term alot, but where i can i read up on it?  man there are some great conversations and great thinkers over here on PA.  lovin it.

Since it is your writing I will leave it to you to answer , I cant remember which volume it is anyway !
Guy

[artcher1]

I do miss the old forum too Steve. A lot of the guys on the forum today don't realize that a lot of what they know and practice today we hashed out and over years ago. Those were exciting and stimulating times. My hat's off to you for trying to revive some of those moments for this new crowd..........Art

[Gus]

Very interesting subject.
I've only recently begon to Persued the Mass Principal.
I look forward to learning more.

-gus

[Marc St Louis]

I do miss the old forum too Steve. A lot of the guys on the forum today don't realize that a lot of what they know and practice today we hashed out and over years ago. Those were exciting and stimulating times. My hat's off to you for trying to revive some of those moments for this new crowd..........Art

There's a heck of a lot of info in that old forum.  I saved a lot of the threads pertinent to my posts but they're in a different format and are not compatible with this board.  I'm sure somebody must know where it is.  In fact I bet PA could make some money putting the contents of that old board on DVD and selling them.  Maybe I'll suggest it to someone.  It would be a shame to lose it completely

[Badger]

  Bryce, I used 12 on the recurve I was talking about more often 14 or r/d bows, and then I continue to increase the taper as I build depending on how it is going.