First Ocean Spray bow lifts a splinter

[Bryce]

Nail right on head Carson.
Danos showed me the stave a couple weeks ago and it was a nice one. I do believe I told him to burnish the back as well:)
I just leave the bark on. Cut in the winter, and the bark stays on. No worries
Anyways, danos that patch seemed to hold pretty dang good:)

[Don Case]

Dan
I really can't remember if I took the bark off right away or not. I was to the point of starting to think it was time to pretty this thing up. There was little bits of cambium that I scraped off. I remember wondering if I was scraping too deep as what I was scraping off was a different colour than the wood I had been scraping on the belly during tillering. I wrote it off to sapwood/ heartwood differences. I wasn't doing anything radical, maybe 3 or 4 scrapes in an area. The area where mine splintered(I wrapped it with linen thread and CA'd it) was an area that had been steamed(maybe twice). I did notice that steaming kind of bleached out the wood and made it kind of rough to the touch. That's about all I know. The bow may survive, I'm waiting for this dry weather to pass. I'm a little gun-shy.
Don 

[Dan K]

Seeing as how it is lifted in the same spot as the opposite limb, maybe you were stressing those inner limbs in your design, thickness taper.  If you are not willing to let the wood take the fall...then I blame you!   

I take blame on this one. I'm learning there are many defects in every piece of wood. I need to hone my skills on seeing them and working them into the bow.   

I'm in agreement on burnishing too. I'd like to read that article if you have the link.

Don -do you have pics you can share?  Since we're sharing knowledge we may as well make the best of it!

[Don Case]

Here's a link to my thread. I'll post some as/is pictures tomorrow.

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,43701.0.html

OOPS

[Dan K]

Link?

[Don Case]

It's nice that you can go back and modify your post then nobody knows you're a screw-up.
Here it is again
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,43701.0.html

[Marc St Louis]

I think I'll take Marc's advise on this one and try sinew wrap!

I say go for it   

[PatM]

I think these type of posts show that the art of debarking a stave that isn't a simple green peeling is a very poorly executed art.
 

[Carson (CMB)]

I think these type of posts show that the art of debarking a stave that isn't a simple green peeling is a very poorly executed art.
 

Pat you couldn't have said any better. 

I wrote this blog post last night after debarking some staves and recently discovering for myself that it truly is an art. 

http://echoarchery.blogspot.com/

The Virtues of a Dull Blade: Stave Debarking

[Don Case]

On my next OS bow I was wondering about just taking the top layer of bark off. It was collected in August and the bark was left on. There is a post here somewhere about "bark on" OS but I can't find it now. Would there be less tendency for the bark to pop off or cause problems if I just take off the gray layer and leave the inner bark?
Thanks for the link Carson, now I have a few days reading.
Don

[Bryce]

Cut in the coldest part of winter and the bark stays on really well. Sometimes it will pop off around a knot or something but it makes a good looking bow. Just steel wool the back.








Sorry for the hijack

[PatM]

I think these type of posts show that the art of debarking a stave that isn't a simple green peeling is a very poorly executed art.
 

Pat you couldn't have said any better. 

I wrote this blog post last night after debarking some staves and recently discovering for myself that it truly is an art. 

http://echoarchery.blogspot.com/

The Virtues of a Dull Blade: Stave Debarking

 It's even more important (and difficult) when working on staves like HHB where the bark sits in the rippled grooves of the back. I see many HHB bows with the high spots nicked and the cambium left in the troughs.
 It use the tip of a spoon and plough all the bark off, high or low. That attention to detail goes a long way to eliminating the possibility of breakage.

[Bryce]

I think these type of posts show that the art of debarking a stave that isn't a simple green peeling is a very poorly executed art.
 

Pat you couldn't have said any better. 

I wrote this blog post last night after debarking some staves and recently discovering for myself that it truly is an art. 

http://echoarchery.blogspot.com/

The Virtues of a Dull Blade: Stave Debarking

 It's even more important (and difficult) when working on staves like HHB where the bark sits in the rippled grooves of the back. I see many HHB bows with the high spots nicked and the cambium left in the troughs.
 It use the tip of a spoon and plough all the bark off, high or low. That attention to detail goes a long way to eliminating the possibility of breakage.

Vinemaple can be the same way. But I have debarked some of that HHB and it's a BEAST! For sure.

[Don Case]

Cut in the coldest part of winter

That would have been yesterday

[Dan K]

The only staves I have were cut this summer so the bark should come off.  I understand winter cut OS bark stays on so Bryce should be OK.  I'm in rout to Sao Paulo Brazil and won't be back until Friday so you may not hear from me for a while.  Tough job I know but it pays well so I'm doing it!

I hope Steve b speaks up cause he's played with a few OS recently and can share some good info.

I'm going cutting when I get home so I have some winter staves to play with next year and compare.

I've not apprechiated the importance of deparking but think that was an issue on this one for me.  Next one I wll definately really prep clean the back and burnish before sealing.  I used shellac by the way and it worked great.