« previous next »
Pages: [1]

Author Topic: question about osage slats  (Read 1910 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Blacktail

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,432
question about osage slats
« on: November 18, 2013, 12:59:03 am »
i am looking at a cheaper way of getting osage...SO,i was looking at osage slats..i dont know any thing about glue-ups so it might be a fun project...BUT,my question is what do i look for in good slat wood...and how should the rings lay in the slat...all so will one slat make a bow or do i need 2...i dont wont to do any bamboo backing BUT i do love sinew backing...sorry for the newbie question BUT i like to ask them...hehe..thanks john
Logged

Offline bushboy

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,256
Re: question about osage slats
« Reply #1 on: November 18, 2013, 08:41:28 am »
Rift or quarter sawn would be my first pick!ipe,yew,or osage for the belly.
Logged
Some like motorboats,I like kayaks,some like guns,I like bows,but not the wheelie type.

Offline adb

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,339
Re: question about osage slats
« Reply #2 on: November 18, 2013, 03:55:56 pm »
Buying dimensional board lumber is ALL about the grain. Straight as possible on all surfaces, with as few run offs as possible, and as straight and knot free as possible.
Logged

Offline Prarie Bowyer

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,599
Re: question about osage slats
« Reply #3 on: November 18, 2013, 08:51:25 pm »
I love slat/board bows. 

Take the dimensions of the osage slats that 3Rivers sells.  They come in pairs but you can get a bow from each one.  I've done them seamless and with seams.  What I like to do now is go ahead and splice them with a "V" at the center. 

Those 3rivers slats bows, what I do is mark a 1/2" tip width on one end and the same 1/2" on the opposite side on the other end and draw the diagonal line to connect.  Pick this in such a way that you use the direction of the grain and keep it as long as possible.  Then you'll need to straighten up the butt ends OR flip one over.  THEN layout your "V" splice.  If you plan to deflex the handle I'd go 3 1/2" or more at least.  I use Tight bond 2 or 3 for that joint.

When I glue them I have a board that is actually two joined together that gives me a fine and straight center line.  I also sight down them and or use the string method.  After getting them all gluey I knock them together and clamp them in position with the tips and center in alignment. . . . mostly.  I make up several of these so that I have staves on hand when the bow building fancy strikes me.

I've also had good success with an angled "finger joint" for deeply deflexed recurves, but you can get that with the "V" also.  You'll have a void to fill with a gap filling glue or need to bend the center around a curved riser block.
Logged

Offline Tom Leemans

  • Member
  • Posts: 524
Re: question about osage slats
« Reply #4 on: November 18, 2013, 09:04:29 pm »
If you plan on doing slat bows, you owe it to yourself to get a copy of "Building The Bamboo Backed Bow" DVD by Dean Torges. He addresses everything to do with slats.
Logged

blackhawk

  • Guest
Re: question about osage slats
« Reply #5 on: November 18, 2013, 09:35:21 pm »
Guys he said he didn't want nothing to do with bamboo...

John if you wanna make a sinewed osage,then do it with a worthy stave IMO...and you know you can get the osage here for cheap by trade....maybe and prob cheaper trading for a stave than buying osage slats intended for hardwood backings... especially if what you have to trade doesn't cost much to ship
Logged
Pages: [1]
« previous next »