Best patch for a Chrysal in Osage

[Eric Krewson]

I have never had a bow develop frets, never. I have a design I use that seems to be immune to such and only use osage for my bows which is a plus as well.

I have turned down a bunch of bow repairs to correct frets because I don't like fooling with them or working on bows that other people made.  The bow I am working on now is a favor to a friend who is in recovery from very serious neck surgery(4 vertebra fused) and can't fix it himself.

[Prarie Bowyer]

Seems to be holding but the patch chrysaled and I started a new one next to it.  I used a saw kerf on the new one and it seems to have stopped it.  Filled the kerf with Osage chip glued in with good quality super glue.

[Jim Davis]

Repairs are one thing,I do tons of that,frets are another,and yes I do have plenty of yellow wood. Next time I find some to cut,come help and I will be glad to share.
   Pappy

Just let me know when to come.

Jim

[mikekeswick]

Seems to be holding but the patch chrysaled and I started a new one next to it.  I used a saw kerf on the new one and it seems to have stopped it.  Filled the kerf with Osage chip glued in with good quality super glue.

My answer - stop making weak spots on your bows.
Forget about patches for now just learn how to tiller properly.
Might sound harsh but it's the best way! Make a tillering gizmo if you are struggling.
The patch chrysaled because you hadn'd fixed the problem that caused the original chyrsal.
An area will only chyrsal if it is very overstrained - simple.
Normally there will be a stiff spot tipward of the chrysal.

[George Tsoukalas]

It is bending too much in that area. To fix it mark a big x there and leave tat area alone. Remove wood frm above and below the hinge to correct the hinge. Glue on a rawhide patch. Retiller the bottom limb to match. I would use hide glue. You can brush on 3 coats of spar urethane to protect it.

To make it pretty glue on some fur. Glue some on the bottom limb to match.

You will loose bow weight but that is not the wood's fault.

To avoid hinges avoid power tools until you gain experience. Use hand tools. Sloooow down. Take long stroke. Go past the target area a little. Feather in your work. Check tiller often...after 20 to 30 strokes for sure.

Sloooow Down.

Jawge

[sleek]

Sure wish we had some pics on this topic..... just saying....

[Joec123able]

Come on man you patched a chrysal then the patch Chrysaled so you patched the patch ? The fact that the patch Chrysaled to should tell ya something if that was my bow it'd be ashes by now

[Prarie Bowyer]

Come on man you patched a chrysal then the patch Chrysaled so you patched the patch ? The fact that the patch Chrysaled to should tell ya something if that was my bow it'd be ashes by now

Na.... I just got it too thin.  I think it works.  I also think the saw kerf works.  I just didn't make it big enough.

[mikekeswick]

Did you read the bit on Dean Torges website as I suggested?
He mentions the fact that the new wood in the patch has never been compressed....so leave the patch proud.....

[Prarie Bowyer]

I overlapped two patches and it is holding nicely .  Took the bow hunting twice. 

featured it in my "what i"ve been up to lately" post.

[Blaflair2]

Got any pix?

[Marc St Louis]

I've chrysalled a couple Osage bows and patched a couple.  One was patched more than 10 years ago and is still shooting

A chrysal does not necessarily mean poor execution.

[Prarie Bowyer]

I was using hand tools.. spoke shave.  Where I chrysaled the patch was from trying to feather it in and I made it to thin.  It needs to stand proud a bit.

Like I said ... it's working nice now.  I'm keeping the bow.

Pics wound up on this thread.
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,43212.0.html