Author Topic: Question about finishes (Read 4244 times)

Slackbunny · « **Reply #15 on:** October 28, 2013, 05:03:46 pm »

I am on a shellac kick right now. I like the look, but I havn't field tested it for durability though.

JW_Halverson · « **Reply #16 on:** October 28, 2013, 10:59:48 pm »

Lots of good info on finishing out the bow after the fakesnake skins are applied. Nothing I can add to that.

BUT, after the glue is dried and before you put down your finish, take a fine tip magic marker and follow the line where the dark meets the light pattern on the skins. They absolutely POP out!

CPLSeraphim · « **Reply #17 on:** October 29, 2013, 05:59:58 pm »

JW. Just curious... do you have any pics with the skin pattern drawn?

mje · « **Reply #18 on:** October 29, 2013, 08:03:42 pm »

I use Tru-Oil on everything, bows included. Rub in in well, wipe off the excess, and then sand it every day with more oil, working the mud into the pores. Easy to apply, easy to maintain.

Pappy · « **Reply #19 on:** October 30, 2013, 07:03:16 am »

Tru oil /rub it on also,coat a day for several days,no it's not that tough but very easy to fix if it does get scratched.

Seem to work pretty good for me Mike,been using it for 25 years,no problems. Never read on it where it said only for gun stocks,

guess I missed that part.

$:-\$ Of course I never read the lables
until I mess up anyway.

Pappy

JW_Halverson · « **Reply #20 on:** October 30, 2013, 09:44:19 pm »

Quote from: CPLSeraphim on October 29, 2013, 05:59:58 pm

JW. Just curious... do you have any pics with the skin pattern drawn?

Lemme see if I can find some pics. If I can't find them, I will just go get the bow back from the recipient for a photoshoot.

You can always take a small off-cut of the material and try it yourself to see if it appeals to you.

JW_Halverson · « **Reply #21 on:** October 30, 2013, 09:46:30 pm »

Quote from: mikekeswick on October 30, 2013, 04:42:02 am

Got to say I don't like tru-oil it just isn't very durable. Try building up as many coats as you want on a piece of scrap wood, let it cure then try scratching it.....it really doesn't take much.
Try Thunderbird and do the same test.
You will see the difference.
I've also done similar tests with some sinew glued to the scrap. Tru -oil realy isn't very water proof either. Remember it's only meant for gun stocks and they don't bend In fact I know a chap who makes very expensive custom gun stocks....I asked him if he would use tru-oil on them and he just laughed.

Aw dang, now you tell me. I'm 24 coats of Tru-Oil into the finish on my rebuilt .36 caliber flintlock!

CPLSeraphim · « **Reply #22 on:** October 30, 2013, 09:54:13 pm »

Lol. And thanks for the idea JW.

I started my first bow (well 2 at once). Anyway, I was reading poorfolks, as I am using red oak boards, and he used drywall tape for backing, in which I am using artificial snakeskin, however, he added his before tillering, and I need to wait til after tillering to put the skins on, so I am wondering, do I have to worry about it cracking or anything since I will be flexing it on the tiller tree without the backing on?

JW_Halverson · « **Reply #23 on:** October 30, 2013, 09:56:50 pm »

If you did a good job choosing a board with good grain orientation, you won't really have to add any backing unless it is for decoration. If the grain is bad enough, there isn't any backing that will save you.

CPLSeraphim · « **Reply #24 on:** October 30, 2013, 11:20:44 pm »

Very well. From what I understand, my decoration backing only really helps prevent splintering. I guess I will see tomorrow. If worst comes to worst, a trip to lowes and another 5 bucks. I think I should be ok, then. I'll start posting pics of these 2 bows after I get the tillering done, just to make sure they don't snap in the beginning.

JW_Halverson · « **Reply #25 on:** October 30, 2013, 11:43:04 pm »

Ok, then. A man has gotta do what a man has gotta do. So do I.

Best luck to you.

nathan elliot · « **Reply #26 on:** October 31, 2013, 05:29:29 am »

I am a finishing junky. I have tried spray poly, acrylic lacquer, tung oil, true oil, finishing oil, melamine lacquer, bees wax, shellac and have even had a go at a cyanoacrylate finish. Bees wax is water soluble so I don't use it. I like true oil but it does go off quite quick (even turning the bottle upside-down) and it is quite pricy when compared with some of the other oil finishes out there. As toomany mentioned tung oil is very forgiving and actually forms a plastic like barrier once cured and for a simple stick and string bow is my choice. Finishing oil from liberon is also a nice bow finish and is my choice for my more fancy bows with handles and knock overlays and stuff, it can give a matt gloss or satin finish depending on your final buff. That said if you want real bomb proof, stay outside in the rain for a week, go for spray on poly. IMHO

Pappy · « **Reply #27 on:** October 31, 2013, 05:33:44 am »

But does it say for gun stock ONLY.

No one say it was the only or very best,he ask what we used.

Pappy

Pat B · « **Reply #28 on:** October 31, 2013, 01:39:02 pm »

I've used mostly Tru-Oil on wood bows for as long as I have been building wood bows and that is over 25 years. I've never had a problem with it. If it does get scratched or the bow needs a repair the Tru-Oil just needs a little rubbing of 0000 steel wool and a few extra coats. I've used my bows in all kinds of weather and the Tru-Oil holds up well.

JW_Halverson · « **Reply #29 on:** October 31, 2013, 10:14:33 pm »

Quote from: Pat B on October 31, 2013, 01:39:02 pm

I've used mostly Tru-Oil on wood bows for as long as I have been building wood bows and that is over 25 years. I've never had a problem with it. If if does get scratched of the bow needs a repair the Tru-Oil just needs a little rubbing of 0000 steel wool and a few extra coats. I've used my bows in all kinds of weather and the Tru-Oil holds up well.

Aw dang, now you tell me. I just sanded 24 coats of Tru-Oil off my rebuilt .36 caliber flintlock!

Primitive Archer