Black Walnut / Walnut

[brian74d]

Guys, I just finished building my first bow of red oak and using drywall tape to back it.  I got bit by the bug.  I wan to build more, but I want to go with a more classical feel.  I REALLY love the look of walnut.  What would you recommend to back it with?  I was thinking maple.  I think that the contrast would look amazing.  Just so you know I'm looking for 45-50 lbs and 29" draw.  My red oak bow was 80" NTN and shot at 46 lbs (that is until my wife's cat tripped me up on the way out the door and caused me to jam in in the floor and break it ).  Would you recommend building it that long again or shorter?  Thanks in advance guys, I appreciate it.

[Blaflair2]

I'd say look up some of the build alongs on here. 80" is pretty excessive. I'm new as well but I think you doubly your draw length and add 8"or something. I kinda like short bows so I just wing it. I'm sure someone with more experience will chime in

[Fred Arnold]

The black walnut bow I finished last year was only 61 1/2"NTN, 1 7/8" at the fades then tapers gradually for 14" and then tapers to 1/2" tips. No backing. I used the sapwood for the back so as not to have to chase rings. It draws 51@28 1/2. Almost pyramid in design and slightly bends in the handle at full draw.

[brian74d]

I have always liked the look of LONG longbows.  I know that 80" is very dramatic, but it makes people look twice and that's what I was going for.  I would like to do that same length again if it doesn't adversely affect the bow.  I am just absolutely horrible at figuring out what woods pair together well.  That's why I'm asking about the maple backed black walnut ans there doesn't seem to be anyone saying "NO" on here so I was thinking of trying it.  With the maple backing being approx 1/8" thick.

[brian74d]

Thanks Fred.

[BowSlayer]

I would make it 67" long with a 5" handle And 2" fades. 

[NeolithicMan]

That sounds like a real dramatic contrast between the maple and walnut. i think you should go for it and remember no matter what you will learn something new. However, I would look up pics of bows with the design you are going for and check for good descriptions so you could get a better feel for what you want and think you can do. Hope to see some pics of it soon!

John

[Fred Arnold]

  After you make this one you may want to just kick the cat 

[Joec123able]

Only made one black walnut self bow it's good stuff mine was from a stave tho

[brian74d]

You ain't kidding Fred, it took everything I had at 6 AM not to stab the cat with the broken limb, LOL

I have to leave town for 2 weeks on Monday, but after that, I'm gonna go pick-up som black walnut and maple and get to work.  I might even try to get some cedar that I have lying around for the tips and handle. Wee shall see...

Here is the result of my run in with the cat.  Due to the color I chose, the bow was nick names "moldie oldie".  RIP oldie

[PEARL DRUMS]

Maple backed walnut would be a good combo. The problem with excessive length is power loss. 66-70" is better. War bows get long, but they also get real heavy in the draw weight dept. You add length and width as the draw weight increases and/or the draw length. Your numbers are pretty standard, so standard spec's would work fine.

[brian74d]

Thanks, PD, I appreciate it.  I was kinds nervous about the wood combo.  My last bow was almost 1.75 at the base of the limb

[PEARL DRUMS]

That's not a bad width to start with on your new recipe either. If the walnut starts to get thin as your tillering, just remove width instead.

[bubby]

yep that wood combo will work, I made a black walnut/birch bow 68" ttt real nice sooth shooter, at 80" unless you have a 36" draw length the wood wont work much and may be a poor performer unless you go hi #'s

[blackhawk]

I'm gonna play devils advocate here....80" is fine for your intended stats..just make the stiff non working center/handle section longer than normal,and tiller it more "ellipictally whipped"...I've made 76" bows this way,and they are nothing short of being a dog,and shoot very well and super smooth and accurate...if that's the length you want then there's nothing wrong with that...just design and tiller it correctly...