Scales

[bow101]

Finally put 2 & 2 togeather and compared my bathroom scale to the health scale at the gym which has the sliding weight system and it is calibrated.  My scale shows 5# less than actuall weight.  That explains one reason why I have broke more than 10 bows in the last couple years.    Five pounds out, can make it or break it...........

[crooketarrow]

  Thats now why you've broke 10 bows. You can make bows any weoght to want.

[bow101]

It seemed like they were bending nicely then I would get to say 65# and snap...!!!!  Most bows were between 62 ---- 66".....  But now I gingerly take my time and at least tiller it right and get to my desired weight of 45----50#
At any rate even 55 is a tad to high for this ole wimp.......   back to the weight training I guess..

[adb]

  Thats now why you've broke 10 bows. You can make bows any weoght to want.

I'd have to agree. Your scale being out 5# isn't your problem.

[Tom Leemans]

I have two scales, a hanging scale and the "portable" kind you draw the bow with. One is used to check the other and I go with the average, but to me, the number is just a number. If you use the faceted approach to tiller ala Dean Torges' writings however, you can sneak up on just about any weight. Some wood messes with you and you end up light, just trying to get the tiller right, (eg. your first R/D BBO bow?) I decided a long time ago to always try to err on the side of heavy. In other words, I try to get to tiller at a heavier weight and, if the bow is for me, see how it feels shooting it. If I feel comfortable shooting it, then I leave it alone. If it's too heavy, I scrape or sand a bit more along the side facets to reduce weight, then check/fix tiller along the belly facet. When it's for someone else, I prefer they see how it feels to them before we arrive at a weight that they enjoy shooting. We can always match arrows to the bow afterwards, especially if they are cane. 

[adb]

I have two scales, a hanging scale and the "portable" kind you draw the bow with. One is used to check the other and I go with the average, but to me, the number is just a number. If you use the faceted approach to tiller ala Dean Torges' writings however, you can sneak up on just about any weight. Some wood messes with you and you end up light, just trying to get the tiller right, (eg. your first R/D BBO bow?) I decided a long time ago to always try to err on the side of heavy. In other words, I try to get to tiller at a heavier weight and, if the bow is for me, see how it feels shooting it. If I feel comfortable shooting it, then I leave it alone. If it's too heavy, I scrape or sand a bit more along the side facets to reduce weight, then check/fix tiller along the belly facet. When it's for someone else, I prefer they see how it feels to them before we arrive at a weight that they enjoy shooting. We can always match arrows to the bow afterwards, especially if they are cane. 

Well said.