Getting horn laminations from gemsbok horn.[Pics added]

[BowEd]

Temperature of heat should run into or close to 300 degrees at least to bend this stuff and remember the thinner it is the quicker it gets to that temperature.I use a laser thermometer.Handy gadget.It will burn if your not careful.If it is not too deep it'll be ok.I wave the heat gun accross back and forth over a 3 to 4 inch area about 2" away.You have to get the heat to penetrate the thicker stuff and it's best to do that gradually.

[BowEd]

After is is straightened I mark a chalk line along the side for it to be ripped length wise.

[BowEd]

I rip it.This can be done with a hacksaw by hand too.

[BowEd]

The result.

[BowEd]

A little more heat straightening the halfs and the result.

[BowEd]

Off to the drill press to reduce this horn from the inside curvature of the horn.I set the table of the drill press at 3/16" deep after the bit is in the chuck.Here is a pic of the bit.It is a 1/2" round chisel bit.Cost of 2$.

[BowEd]

I push the half of horn along in the concave of the horn and it removes materiall exactly 3/16" deep.

[BowEd]

More chiseling making sure it is done over all.

[BowEd]

Check for depth to be sure.

[BowEd]

The result.

[BowEd]

Different picture of result showing the length also.

[BowEd]

Today I will try to flatten these horn pieces and will post pictures of that process and the end result after sanding etc.One of the main reasons to get this an even thickness is so that you don't have thick spots on your horn that can result in the horn not geting hot enough and it cracking.Cracking sometimes even does occur yet but the goal is to have none.The cracks if not very deep have no ill effect on the integrity of the horns' strength if running length wise and in a straight line not running off the side of which I've never had it do that.The cracks can be filled with super glue or left since if it does crack it is usually on the inside and that side will be glued to the limb and get filled with glue anyway.
Leave your horn crowned on the outside.I will show you that later.
Till later......

[Gus]

Heck Yes Sir!!!

I'll be watching...

Thank You,

-gus

[BowEd]

OK.The job is done.Now I realize this thread is not for the low budget bowyer because of the powr tools used here but maybe they know a friend that has these and maybe someone that has these power tools would like to try this.
Generally 1/16" thick horn will give you 10 to 15 pounds at 1 and 3/8" wide....1/8" thick will give you 15 to 20 pounds.....3/16" will give you upwards of close to 30 pounds.This all depends on the amount of reflex you put horn into and if it's wider both of which will increase the poundage.These numbers I'm speaking of were on R/D bows 62" to 64" with only 2" of reflex induced.
First where I left off the horn was  taken to thickness of 3/16".Now there will be a square edge on each side of the horn.The inside corner edge needs to be scraped flat to meet the other outside edge.What this does is help the horn flatten out like say a butterfly spreading his wings when the horn gets squashed flat between the jaws of the vice.I have a 5" by 10" carpenters' vice,On a regular vice with smaller jaws 2 large channel irons can be put on the jaws to create a wider surface.
OK first picture is of the scraping of that inside edge.

[BowEd]

Finished look