cleaning an heat treating oak

[NeolithicMan]

I have been working on a red oak bow for a while now and have reached a place of frustration. the back and belly feel like glass after a session with 800 grit sand paper and in between each grit (60,120,220,320,400,600,800) I rub a damp cloth up and down the bow to raise the grain. my issue is that the dust builds up in the VERY porus growth rings and even after a damp cloth rub it seems to stick. Also this makes the wood slightly rough from the moisture. I tried using a nylon stiff bristled brush to scrub it out but could only do so much. I would like to remove this sanding dust so that I can heat treat the belly some but the dust could lead to un-even heat on the bow. Not to mention that when I stain the bow I dont want this dust mixing in or soaking up the stain and falling off later. Am I just obsessing over a mundane detail or am I correct in this line of thought? And lastly, I bent recurves in and unclamped them in a childish frenzy, strung the bow, shot it and now there are no recurves in it... I know nowthat patience for a day and nightmight have prevented this, my question is can I try again (with steam) or is the wood weakened to much?

[koan]

An air hose then a true tack cloth is yer best bet for the dust but dont sweat it to much... Its the nature of red oak... I havent recurved oak yet but anytime i do recurve( i use dry heat thus far) I leave em clamped up for a few days and in the hot box. My $.02.... Brian

[George Tsoukalas]

I am wondering if what you are experiencing is the raising of the grain from your damp cloth wipe.
I do the damp cloth technique too. I use 220 grit. I keep doing it until a wipe no longer raises the grain. I lightly sand. At most it has taken 3 -4 times. I do let it dry before sanding and the cloth is only damp.
I finish sand with 300, 400 and 600 grit.
I can't explain why it keeps raising the grain on you.
I do keep the sanding on the back down as the rings are thin on most oaks.
Are using a board or stave?
I've used both log and board stave and never experienced what you describe but my techniques is slightly different. Not saying mine is better.
Jawge

[NeolithicMan]

I am using a stave cut and split in early winter. I tried using a few different cloths to remove the dust all lightly damp. After the first pass with 60 & 120 grit I use a pretty wet clother to get inside all the grooves left by tools and sandpaper. then its just damp cloths from there on out. this worked well for me when doing knife scales so I continue to use it. I do let the wood dry well before I start sanding again. I think I am just getting a little to obsessed with perfection and need to chill out a bit. thanks to all, your in two cents and experience are very helpful



John, Central NY