« previous next »
Pages: [1] 2 3

Author Topic: Maple backed red oak longbow  (Read 14513 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline ajooter

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,234
Maple backed red oak longbow
« on: September 05, 2013, 09:17:42 pm »
Hey all. I was in the process of building a red oak board bow and decided last minute to put a maple backing on it. At this stage in the process the bow is very heavy and I'm working on thinning the limbs and getting a decent bend so I can start tillering. Just wondering if anybody has had any experience backing with maple and what I could expect for finish poundage.I'm shooting for 55 to 60#. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. I am absolutely envious of the way some of you guys can make a bow.
Logged

Offline bushboy

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,256
Re: Maple backed red oak longbow
« Reply #1 on: September 05, 2013, 09:35:20 pm »
I would make the backing no more than 1/8 thick and trap the back a bit ,heat treat the belly as maple is strong in tension.as for draw weight shouldn't be a prob with good tiller and design.
Logged
Some like motorboats,I like kayaks,some like guns,I like bows,but not the wheelie type.

Offline ajooter

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,234
Re: Maple backed red oak longbow
« Reply #2 on: September 16, 2013, 07:59:56 pm »
I ended up trapping the back of the bow, but I didnt heat treat the belly yet.  The bow is 69" ntn and is coming in at 57# @ 20" on the long string right now.  I was wondering what poundage I should stop at on the long string to get a finished bow weight around 60-65#?  I was also thinking about backing the bow with either rawhide or burlap.  Any comments on the tiller at this point would be greatly appreciated.  I am working on the road right now so the most symetrical backdrop is my hotel  :P.  Thanks for any help!!
Logged

Offline adb

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,339
Re: Maple backed red oak longbow
« Reply #3 on: September 16, 2013, 08:11:40 pm »
Maple is superior backing material, as long as it has the appropriate grain. I made a 120#@32" maple backed yew warbow, so it'll take you where ever you need to go with the right design.
Logged

Offline adb

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,339
Re: Maple backed red oak longbow
« Reply #4 on: September 16, 2013, 08:15:41 pm »
Quote from: ajooter on September 16, 2013, 07:59:56 pm
I ended up trapping the back of the bow, but I didnt heat treat the belly yet.  The bow is 69" ntn and is coming in at 57# @ 20" on the long string right now.  I was wondering what poundage I should stop at on the long string to get a finished bow weight around 60-65#?  I was also thinking about backing the bow with either rawhide or burlap.  Any comments on the tiller at this point would be greatly appreciated.  I am working on the road right now so the most symetrical backdrop is my hotel  :P.  Thanks for any help!!


It's not about the poundage with the long string. It's about tip movement. As soon as your tips move enough to go to a short string or low brace, do it. The sooner the better. I don't use a long string at all anymore. I go from floor tiller to low brace. Obviously, don't ever pull your bow past your intended draw weight at any time during the tillering process, regardless of where you are. If you linger too long on the long string, your bow will often end up whip tillered.
Logged

Offline toomanyknots

  • Member
  • Posts: 3,132
Re: Maple backed red oak longbow
« Reply #5 on: September 16, 2013, 09:49:51 pm »
Remove wood here:



I think maple is a pretty good choice for a backing for red oak. Probably easier on the belly than linen cloth, and more effective too. Red oak is pretty compression weak, and linen has caused chrysals for me in red oak. Maple is pretty forgiving. Hickory or bamboo could easily over power a red oak belly, in contrast.
Logged
"The way of heaven is like the bending of a bow-
 the upper part is pressed down,
 the lower part is raised up,
 the part that has too much is reduced,
 the part that has too little is increased."

- Tao Te Ching, 77, A new translation by Victor H. Mair

Offline PEARL DRUMS

  • Member
  • Posts: 14,079
  • }}}--CK-->
Re: Maple backed red oak longbow
« Reply #6 on: September 17, 2013, 03:32:53 pm »
As Mr. ADB suggested, get it braced at 2-3". It makes a huge difference when you start pulling in and down on those limbs. TMK may me right about the stiff spots, or it may look better after a short brace. Your tiller is good enough it wont hurt to low brace it now.
Logged
Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline toomanyknots

  • Member
  • Posts: 3,132
Re: Maple backed red oak longbow
« Reply #7 on: September 17, 2013, 04:03:17 pm »
Quote from: PEARL DRUMS on September 17, 2013, 03:32:53 pm
As Mr. ADB suggested, get it braced at 2-3". It makes a huge difference when you start pulling in and down on those limbs. TMK may me right about the stiff spots, or it may look better after a short brace. Your tiller is good enough it wont hurt to low brace it now.

Good points.
Logged
"The way of heaven is like the bending of a bow-
 the upper part is pressed down,
 the lower part is raised up,
 the part that has too much is reduced,
 the part that has too little is increased."

- Tao Te Ching, 77, A new translation by Victor H. Mair

Offline ajooter

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,234
Re: Maple backed red oak longbow
« Reply #8 on: September 17, 2013, 06:08:01 pm »
Ill be workin on her a little later...thanks for all the advise guys
Logged

Offline bushboy

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,256
Re: Maple backed red oak longbow
« Reply #9 on: September 17, 2013, 08:09:50 pm »
Little confused here,did you glue on a maple backing strip?
Logged
Some like motorboats,I like kayaks,some like guns,I like bows,but not the wheelie type.

Offline Joec123able

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,769
Re: Maple backed red oak longbow
« Reply #10 on: September 17, 2013, 08:13:19 pm »
Toomanyknots I think he needs to reduce the spots you pointed out plus take some at the inner fade areas
Logged
I like osage

Offline ajooter

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,234
Re: Maple backed red oak longbow
« Reply #11 on: September 17, 2013, 08:53:52 pm »
Yes I did glue on a maple backing...I had some bows come in a little light and thought it would help me gain a little draw weight.  Just something to try.  So far it seems to be working.
Logged

Offline adb

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,339
Re: Maple backed red oak longbow
« Reply #12 on: September 17, 2013, 09:25:07 pm »
Quote from: toomanyknots on September 16, 2013, 09:49:51 pm
Remove wood here:



I think maple is a pretty good choice for a backing for red oak. Probably easier on the belly than linen cloth, and more effective too. Red oak is pretty compression weak, and linen has caused chrysals for me in red oak. Maple is pretty forgiving. Hickory or bamboo could easily over power a red oak belly, in contrast.

If you do what's been suggested and you dilly-dally on the long string for too long, this is exactly why your bow might end up whip tillered. Get to a low brace asap. You have enough tip movement.
Logged

Offline kevinsmith5

  • Member
  • Posts: 287
Re: Maple backed red oak longbow
« Reply #13 on: September 17, 2013, 10:46:23 pm »
Did you glue in any reflex or just leave it straight?
Logged

Offline bushboy

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,256
Re: Maple backed red oak longbow
« Reply #14 on: September 18, 2013, 04:38:29 am »
Heat treating at thiis point is no longer an option,maybe you know this?
Logged
Some like motorboats,I like kayaks,some like guns,I like bows,but not the wheelie type.
Pages: [1] 2 3
« previous next »