Snakeskin won't dry

[tailfeather]

Got two E. diamondback skins in the mail today from a buddy.  One is dried and stiff like normal.....the other is still soft and pliable after a week of borax.  It was a roadkill, and while there are no holes in the skin, I'm concerned about it not drying stiff.  It doesn't feel greasy, but maybe oils or body fluids from the injury are keeping it from stiffening?  Anyhoo, my concern is it taking the glue.  Maybe I should
degrease" it with some Dawn, etc.?  Or don't worry about it and glue her up?

[osage outlaw]

You don't need the borax on snake skins.  Just tack them down and let them dry out.

[Carson (CMB)]

Like Clint said, thin skins like snake don't really need borax or salt.  Might try wiping it down with some alcohol if you suspect it is oily.  Dawn might work, but alcohol will degrease it without re-wetting it. 

[autologus]

I am so glad stuff like this comes up.  I have a big timber rattler and a huge cottonmouth in the freezer and was wondering a couple things.  When I skin them out do you split the belly scales or go to one side?  Do you tack it down scale side up or down?  Will there be much flesh left on the skins to remove in general?  I have killed more than I can count but have never skinned any.

Grady

[osage outlaw]

If the snake is fat enough, I will cut it one row of scales over from the belly scales and save them.   You can use them also and get two backings per snake if its long enough.  If its not wide enough I cut them right down the center of the belly.  I think most guys tack them scales down.  I scrape them clean and tack them scales up.  If flies are bothering it I will spritz it with insect repellent

[autologus]

Thanks for the advice, both of these guys are about as big around as my wrist, the cottonmouth is probably bigger.

Grady

[adb]

You don't need the borax on snake skins.  Just tack them down and let them dry out.

Agreed.

[Gus]

What Clint said...

But I always tack them scales down.
If there is damage or if they are trying to shed, I put wax paper or Parchment paper down on my board first, that way the skin won't try to stick to the board... Thus avoiding potential damage to the skin when you pull it off the board.

You don't need to put them Out in the Sun either.
Just a shaded, dry place with good air flow.
And mind the Vermin... It only takes a few minutes for a Rat, Cat or Dog to wreck your work...

-gus

[Danzn Bar]

Clint knows snake skins,,, ditto what he said..........................

[osage outlaw]

I love me some snakes 

[David_Daugherty]

This has been a great thread!!  I'm going out this weekend for some rivercane I promised Tower.  It has finally stopped raining every day so I think I can get into the cane patch.  While I am there I hope to find a couple of timber rattlers for bow backing.  How long to they need to dry out until I can use them to back a bow?

[osage outlaw]

Mine usually dry in a day or two in the summer.  I hang them up for a couple of weeks before I store them away.  I don't want any moisture in my skin box.  You wet the skins before you apply them.  I have heard you can glue them on fresh and let them dry on the bow.  I've never tried that before. 
Be careful with the timbers this weekend.

[Eric Krewson]

If you goofed up and put borax on the skin you need to wash it for throughly, at least for 15 minutes under warm, running water. If you don't wash out all the borax it won't stick to your bow.

If your skin is pliable, someone might have given it an antifreeze treatment to tan it.

[Gus]

If you live in Texas or are planning to ship to Texas...

Timber Rattlers are on the Threatened List here.
Don't get caught with the skins.
Don't get caught killing one.

Even if they come from a state that you can legally take Timbers it would be No Bueno trying to prove they weren't from Texas.

Do what you wanna do.
Just don't get caught.

-gus