My First Bow - A Self Bow

[ConorO]

Hello to all who inhabit the forums of the Primitive Archer! I just joined these forums yesterday as I am nearing full-on submerging myself in the making of two primitive longbows. And I've come to you all for guidance . . . Last October I cut down a nice white oak and split the trunk in half, and each have in quarters. The staves have been drying in our basement ever since. Being that summer's come and is currently on its way home, I feel that now is the time to begin the intimidating craft, as I have a December 25th deadline . . . So! With that said, I have some questions for those of you who would care to offer me any advice; I would greatly appreciate it.

1) Is White Oak a decent enough choice for one's first primitive longbow?

2) Some of the staves I have may have a small knot here or there, as well as a bend, will these factors damage the integrity of the bow's backing? (Which I intend to keep just wood, no burlap or anything like that, I just wanted a solid piece of wood)

3) I have read about others who shaved down their bow's backing to one solid growth ring in order to maintain integrity, is this good practice?

4) In terms of a hand-rest, I have never shot a bow without a hollowed-out arrow rest which centers the arrow more solidly on the string. Should I attempt to make such a rest, or should I go for over-all integrity and primitive nature with a leather rest wrapped around the solid wood?
       - Also, can a primitive longbow, as such, be ambidextrous?

5) In terms of tillering, what advice would you offer a greenhorn?

6) Have you built any devices which aid in the shaving of a stave with a draw knife, allowing for stability and maneuverability?

I can post some pictures of the wood I have to work with later on. I appreciate any help and guidance you all may care to offer, truly. As I progress, I may have some more questions to toss at ya'  . . .

[Newindian]

1-yes, unless by long bow you mean English long bow, oak is a tension strong wood likes a rectangular cross section, it could benefit from a heat treatment but that may not be advisable for a first bow
2- no knots shouldn't affect the integrity of the back so long as they are treated right, twist and wiggles  in the would are not a problem either but may need corrections in order to bring the string in alignment.
3- with white woods like white oak you should just peel of the bark and that's your back
4- it is possible to do a cut in shelf not something for your first and personally I think they are hideous, if you want a rest you could build one up on the side with leather, really I find no need for this so long as you have feathers not vanes you won't tell the difference. And yes it could be ambidextrous but you would need a rest on both sides.
5- do a build along with tillering, this is where you need the most help.
6-there are things like bow presses if that is what you mean

[TacticalFate]

1. White oak is fine
 
2. Unless the knot is large, tiller right through it.

3. White oak is a whitewood, no need to chase a ring, take off the bark and there's your back right there

4. No cut in rest is needed, and in my opinion, they're very ugly

5. Take it slowly, check your bend several ways, like in a mirror, using a straightedge, on the floor, etc.

6. Easist thing to do is clamp a stave down to a railing with a few clamps, if you dont have a shaving horse or a bench vise

[koan]

White oak is a great bow wood.. Very tuff stuff. If your stave is even remotely straight and mostly clean(no major knots) you prolly can use basic board bow specs and have a great shooter..check out Ferrets or Georges web sights. There may be plans here on PA also... Brian

[Buckeye Guy]

Looks like some good advise has been given !
You can use most any vise to hold your work !

Tell us more about your wood - how long are the pieces ?
Has the bark came off yet ? Any splits, cracks, bug damage, nicks , or other visible damage!

Have fun and yes post pics along the way !!

[H Rhodes]

I agree with all the good advice given above.   I would have to say that I would encourage you to go ahead and heat treat the belly of your bow when you are at the floor tiller/long string stage.  White oak really benefits from a toasting of the belly and it isn't hard to do.   

[hedgeapple]

You're getting some very good advice.  One thing I would suggest is DON'T cut through any knots while peeling the bark.  Work around them.  They probably stand up like little pimples, but that will just get the bow some character.

[MWirwicki]

Very sound advice given so far, ConorO.  Post pics as you progress.  We'll help you along the way.

[ConorO]

Thank you all so much! Do you guys have any pointers for removing the bark and inner pulp without damaging the fresh layer of white wood beneath? I will post some pictures of my staves later on today!

[hedgeapple]

I use a drawknife.  If you're lucky it will peel off in long strips.  If there's knots to work around I use a pocket knife and go slowly.

[Joec123able]

I'd try and pry the bark of slowly and carefully if it doesn't want to come off with out the inner bark sticking then I'd scrape the bark off which takes along while. Also once with a honey locust stave I couldn't get the bark to come off so I steamed one end of it and the bark lifted then I slowly pryed the bark off in one piece

[ConorO]

That seems to be the biggest challenge for me, peeling of the bark and pulpy underbark without damaging the surface of the wood. But, here are the staves I currently have to work with.

[koan]

Looks like your on your way...gettin a clean back ring usually is the most daunting task for a 1st bow... You got it whooped now! :-).... Brian

[ConorO]

Thank you! I sure hope I can turn this thing out...  Do you have any advice for removing the bark and getting a clean back ring? 

[George Tsoukalas]

Conoor, my site may help you. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/index.html