Black locust down, the kinda stuff I'd take to a get together! (sawn pics added)

[huisme]

Well I might as well post here since I don't have much for wood options out here in Floodville... er I mean Colorado. 

I would love to know what makes a good Black Locust bow stave candidate and what doesn't.  So far I have two successful bows out of probably 15 boards and others... and I thought maybe using a stave might yeild more successes.   So... using huisme's pictures as a guide... what should we look for in a good one versus say a bad one?

Thanks!  (Sorry if this is looked at like a hijack attempt... I don't intend to do that at all... justt seemed as good a time as any.)

I welcome you, so no worries! 

First and foremost is making sure the wood is healthy. We don't want a but of rot in the stave.
After that I'd check the grain and make sure it's not more twisted in any way than I can handle.
Third, I'd check the rings. Thicker rings have seemed more dense than thinner in my trees.

And something I might do just because I'm nuts is take a roughly bow sized piece and tap on it compared to some of my confirmed better staves. If they both have a nice high ring, I know they're probably both pretty dense. Of course, this is for dried staves only 

Alright, and here's a couple of update pics. I wasn't going to spend the hours per each cut to length, sorry gents 

[twisted hickory]

That ought to keep ya busy for a couple of days I bet you will be posting some nice bl bows this spring

[huisme]

I've been meaning to ask if BL can be hot-boxed for a couple months and come out alright if I leave a few extra inches on the ends and seal the back. My first couple of bows with this stuff were both sapwood backed and made within two months of falling the tree ('cause I had NO clue what I was doing  ) and they're still fine, if underweight and overbuilt 

I've also experinemted with a trash stave (can you say 80% knots?) in the Washington hot-rainy-overcast-hot wether and only seen one minor check in the end, so I'm almost ready to try slightly quickened drying with two or three staves--

I would like some input though.

[mikekeswick]

Forget the hotbox unless you remove all the sapwood and even then you should let them sit for a month with no forced drying.

By the way I wasn't joking about a trade - 3 staves for a bow of your choice. If you rough the staves out then they needn't weigh too much. It's also expensive to post a bow to America so we should work out ok. Have a look at some of the bows i've posted to get an idea what I can make....in fact i've just finished up a whole bunch of bows that have been sat about with no varnish on them....I might just get my finger out and post the lot of them. Just PM me if you are interested.

[huisme]

Alright, I wasn't sure about the wait so that's good to know. I think I'll give 'em two to be safe, then still go kinda slow.

I like the sound of that, and I know your bows are works or art from what I've seen. I'll just need a little time to set the money aside for the shipping, and getting the staves down to size-- though I could just get yours cut up ahead of the rest if it's really apparent which ones are trade-quality, which should be most of them.

Will PM the same message 

[BowEd]

Be sure to tell of the cost it takes for sending etc. if you want I mean.

[twisted hickory]

Alright, I wasn't sure about the wait so that's good to know. I think I'll give 'em two to be safe, then still go kinda slow.

I like the sound of that, and I know your bows are works or art from what I've seen. I'll just need a little time to set the money aside for the shipping, and getting the staves down to size-- though I could just get yours cut up ahead of the rest if it's really apparent which ones are trade-quality, which should be most of them.

Will PM the same message 

husime,
To care for the staves correctly debark off to the heart wood and put at least 2 coats of good poly varnish in the ends and back. That stuff will crack bad if you don't care for it correctly. Leave it set off the ground and in a cool dry place for a couple of months before setting them in a dry place to dry good.
I would avoid a hot box.
From the looks of what I see of the picts you have some real premium staves there. That tree will teach you to be a good bowyer.
keep us posted
Greg