One limb reflexed, the other flat (finished pics page 2)

[hedgeapple]

I'm in the add reflex group.

[H Rhodes]

I am in the add reflex camp too, but it is really up to you.  Bubby was right about it not being all that reflexed.  Main thing, no matter which way you decide to go is to make sure those limbs are bending evenly.  If they are bending equal amounts, without flat spots or hinges, it should shoot fine even if the limbs don't match.  Heat treating and reflexing would give you a little more draw weight. 

[Dances with squirrels]

I would not shim one side of the handle to even the tips in height on the tree. I would leave the handle level, because that's how it will be held when drawn by hand. I would also only draw it on the tree by pulling on the string where it will be drawn from by the archer... not from the center of the handle.

If you hold and draw it on the tree the same way you will when yiu shoot it, and syncronize the limbs while doing so, it won't matter if one limb stsrts out in front of the other, or whether it looks odd at brace, and won't matter what the resultant brace measurements are in the end... in spite of all that, it will be well tillered, timed, easy and predictable to tune, shoot the arrow perfectly straight away, without handshock, without tiller shifts requiring corrections or flipping the bow end for end, etc.

[briarjumper12]

thank ye squirrel.  I hadn't thought of that. I will incorporate that into my plan.
Just got through putting on some Buff horn on the tips.  Got to shape them out and then back to tillering.

[Pappy]

I would put it on a form and put even reflex in both limbs, It will work fine either way,just saying what I would do.
   Pappy

[blackhawk]

You don't have to build a form to get the other limb to match...put a 2-3" high block on a straight flat 2x4 or your edge of the work bench and put/clamp the back of the handle of the bow on that...and then clamp the tips down and heat treat both limbs....it works fine this way as long as you have an even enough tiller before you heat it...IMHO hickory needs tempered,so why not kill two birds with one stone all in one shot and now both limbs will be even and easier for you to tiller if that is too much for you too handle...

[briarjumper12]

You don't have to build a form to get the other limb to match...put a 2-3" high block on a straight flat 2x4 or your edge of the work bench and put/clamp the back of the handle of the bow on that...and then clamp the tips down and heat treat both limbs....it works fine this way as long as you have an even enough tiller before you heat it...IMHO hickory needs tempered,so why not kill two birds with one stone all in one shot and now both limbs will be even and easier for you to tiller if that is too much for you too handle...

That sounds good.  I've reflexed and toasted the bellies before but my form that I used is MIA in the catastrophe that is my shop.  I like the sound of that method right there. Simple enough for even me.  I might try it.
I got some buff horn glued on and tip roughly shape. Got to rough in the other and then I might do this.

[blackhawk]

If ya do a word of caution to keep the heat away from your tip overlays..and I'd heat the flat limb first...then let it cool after an hour and go back and do the other limb...

[briarjumper12]

If ya do a word of caution to keep the heat away from your tip overlays..and I'd heat the flat limb first...then let it cool after an hour and go back and do the other limb...

10-4 on all dat.
Heatin' the flat limb right now.  Cleanin the shop a little during intervals.

[Joec123able]

Just add reflex to the other limb not that big of a deal

[briarjumper12]

Got it figured out and got it finished. Gotta serve the string, put in beaver fur and will be all done.  Turned out pretty good, not perfect but.... 
I will say this bow tested my patience but with a construction time of about 6 weeks it is my fastest completed bow yet. Had to overcome the crazy limb, a cracked a nock shoulder and 12 hours of heat treating.
I will post pics and specs tomorrow, if it ain't raining all day (again!). After 6 weeks of working furiously on this thing I am wore out.

[autologus]

I am with blackhawk, that is how I heat treat my bows.  I have a small white oak block that is 2"x2.5" and put it in the middle of the handle then clamp the tips to the bench till they just touch the top and heat treat away.  It ends up adding about 1.5" of reflex to both limbs.

Grady

[briarjumper12]

Finished out at 72" tpt. 1 3/4" at fades to midlimb tapering to 7/16 tips. Pulls 51@28. Has buffalo horn tip overlays too but forgot to photograph them.  Handle wrap is deerskin. Thanks for all the help guys.

Unbraced


braced


front profile


Handle


Money shot

[autologus]

Very nice, that is one pretty bow.

Grady

[blackhawk]

Sweet...that'll work...unbraced looks good..and at that length should be a stable accurate shooter that lasts a lifetime