OO, a cut in handle, bendy handle bow is a tough nut to crack. You actually need to tiller through the handle. My mentor, GMC, was the master of it IMO. Do a search of GMC to see some of his bows. I've shot many of them, locust, hedge and mulberry. They chrono-ed between 170 to mid 180's. Super fast, super flat and super smooth. You in up with the thickest portion of the handle being about where you hand touches the bow, then tapers from there out about 1/2 to 3/4" passed the fades. His method of operation was to get the bow bending evenly while making sure it was bending at the fades slightly. Then with 3 to 4 inches left to target draw length he'd work on getting the handle to bend (if I remember correctly. I was a very green newby at the time)