A couple of points.
1. If you want to make a 50# bow, you have to pull it to 50# at some time before it reaches brace else it may well come in underweight.
2. Make sure you have it on the tillering stick supported as it will be in the hand and pull the string from wehre your fingers will pull it. Better still take it off the tiller now and then and try it in front of a morror (or a big glass door will do).
3. Don't rely too much on measurements... they are good for getting you roughed out ready to get it on the tiller and good for checking an even thickness taper. BUT... Bottom line is, it's how it
looks when being shot that matters... all the rest is just a means to an end.
As they say up North in the UK... you don't fatten a pig by weighing it.
Similarly you don't tiller a bow by measuring it!
A good deal of the skill is getting your eye in... taking pics, or video clips of it flexing can help, as can holding a plate or somesuch in front of it to help you see the curve. Reversing it left to right on the tiller or swapping the bow top limb to bottom can sometimes help. Generally the bottom limb is under greater strain and needs to be a tad stiffer to compensate.
Del
PS. This post on my blog illustrates some of what I'm saying. You may find the blog a good source of info, as I show mistakes, problems and fixes as well as the pretty stuff. Some video clips bows being pulled on the tiller ate various stages of tillering in there too
http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/tillering-symmetry.html