Hey all,
I've made 8-9 red oak bows now and I've learned quite a bit about the wood. 5 have chrysaled, 2 due to tillering error when I first started, 1 due to an over-strained design, and 2 for no particular reason that I could deduce. I have never had one break in tension, and all have been unbacked, some with questionable grain. Out of the 20 or so bows that I have made, those 5 are the only ones that ever chrysaled/failed on me.
Therefore, I used to HATE red oak.
I found out with the last two I've made that the secret to red oak is to highly crown or trap the back. For all you newbies out there, this increases stress on the back and decreases stress on the belly. By doing so, chrysals are much less likely to appear.
This also helps with set. For example, I've made 4 red oak ELB that were 1 1/8" through the handle straight tapering to 3/8" tips. They were just over 3/4" wide at mid-limb and 70" n2n. Many people would say this is two narrow for red oak. I disagree. I trapped the back to 50% width on the back on two bows and left the other two alone.
Of the 4, none have chrysaled, but the two I didn't trap took nearly 2-2.25" of set after shooting in, due to the belly being somewhat over strained.
The two I did trap both only took between 3/4" and 7/8" of set after shooting in (around 500 arrows) and are noticeably faster. All the bows pulled between 40-45#.
I've seen many beginners ask how to reduce set in their oak boards limbs and I believe this is the key. I've found that a board with good grain will fail in compression long before it fails in tension. So don't be afraid to put an aggressive trap on the back of your board before you begin tillering. It will make a world of difference.
Jon