Can't wait 'till August!

[Scallorn]

Found this mulberry sapling out in the woods close to my house. I'm waiting for the sap to be at it's maximum before I cut it. Is mulberry sapwood good for the back of the bow? I don't plan on chasing a ring on it, because I'm trying to keep it as "native american" as possible, and I don't believe they chased rings much. Also, there is loads of hickory and elm back there too 

[twisted hickory]

Pray some overzelous 10 yr old doesn't show up with a hatchet or the loggers come for "timber management". I gotta black locust up the road that is 16 inches at the stump and from what I can tell is clear and no twist for the first 12 foot.
I bet all of us have at least one tree were drooling to get at with a draw knife
Greg

[Newindian]

The only native american bows I know of with a violated back were sinew backed

[twisted hickory]

I think they did use osage and black locust. Not sure if they backed all of the bows or not.
Greg

[blackhawk]

Let it grow,and go cut some of that hickory and elm if you want sapwood backed na style bows....that mulberry needs to be left to grow for another 15+ years minimum,then it'll be ready....mulberry is best with a heartwood ring chased

[Scallorn]

Twisted Hickory, I am sure nobody is getting to this one before me! It's in one of those secret places that we all have, that nobody else knows about Haha!
Blackhawk, I don't know, I'm pretty tempted to cut this one. I thought it would make a good sapling bow. I have seen at least three powhatan bows from the 1600s in steve allely and jim hamm's encyclopedia, that I'm pretty sure would have been made from saplings.
I might be wrong though.

[twisted hickory]

Twisted Hickory, I am sure nobody is getting to this one before me! It's in one of those secret places that we all have, that nobody else knows about Haha!
Blackhawk, I don't know, I'm pretty tempted to cut this one. I thought it would make a good sapling bow. I have seen at least three powhatan bows from the 1600s in steve allely and jim hamm's encyclopedia, that I'm pretty sure would have been made from saplings.
I might be wrong though.

I am planning on cutting my locust tree as soon as nursing classes are done. I bet there is at least 3 nice staves knot free in it. I hope my locust is safe as well! Only my saw will violate the growth rings! LOL.

[Joec123able]

If I was planning on cutting that tree I'd cut it as soon as possible so you don't have to wait as long to let it dry

[Scallorn]

Joe, I would cut it now, but I want to wait for the sap to be up. When the sap is up, the bark will peel off really easily.

[Pat B]

If the tree has leafed out I would cut it now. the bark should peel right off. Last years growth ring has had all winter to mature. If you wait til August you will be working with a brand new, immature ring. What diameter is the mulberry tree? If 2" or less I would peel the bark, seal the whole pole and cut out the belly side of the limbs and bind it to a form until it dries. If 3" or more, strip the bark, seal and band saw it in half lengthwise then bind the two halves back together, belly to belly, with spacers between the 2 halves. By August they should be ready to build bows.
   I have made successful bows with mulberry that were all heartwood, 50/50heart/sap and with a  few rings of sapwood left on. They all worked well but the more sapwood the thicker the limbs will be. The best bow will be all heartwood.

[Badly Bent]

Scallorn, I just finished a sapwood backed mulberry eastern woodland style bow. First time leaving sapwood on mulberry for me but
it turned out real nice, My stave was a 15 year seasoned piece and from a larger diameter tree. Also I chased sapwood down to the
last ring above the heartwood. I think its a nice look, kinda like yew with the contrast of sap/heart on back/belly. At least on mine
I don't think the one thin ring of sapwood affected the bows performance or durability. I'd try it again when I have more mulberry.

[Youngboyer2(billyf)]

I bet all of us have at least one tree were drooling to get at with a draw knife
Greg

I know I have one I can't get off my mind! That's just too true

[Scallorn]

Thanks for the advise pat b. I will definitely be cutting it soon then, the leaves are just now reaching full size.

[Joec123able]

Where do you live ??! Here in Iowa none of the trees have leaves yet

[rossfactor]

I bet that if you use the outer ring as the back of the bow, you will get little to no heartwood in that size stave.

I love sapling bows.  More than half of my bows are sapling bows. But when you're working with narrow diamter saplings, its best with woods whose sapwood alone is good for bow making (hickory, oak, plum and other friutwoods, HHB, buckthorn, cascara, etc). 

Woods whose sapwood (alone) is poorer for bowmaking (e.g. Osage, Locust, Cedar, Juniper etc), are better from staves with a large enough dimater to support a good amount of sapwood.

I could be totally wrong, but if that mulberry tree is 4-5 inches in diameter, I'm betting you only get 2" of heartwood max.  Without chasing a ring,(e.g. just using the outer ring as the back of the bow) you will only have heartwood in your handle, and little to none in your limbs.

Still may make a nice bow, but I think Blackhawks advice is sound. 

Gabe